Today's Articles

  • i have troubles in assessing the building energy efficiency index

    Question:

    i have troubles in assessing the building energy efficiency index, as i know , there’re following  kinds of ways or indexes : 1.building envelope OTTV(Overall Thermal Transfer Value), PAL(Perimeter Annual Load), U-Value 2.facility or equipment CEC/AC(Co-efficient of energy consumption for air conditioning ) EER(or SEER) COP my question is what’s strongpoit and lack of each index? thks!

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > i have troubles in assessing the building energy efficiency index, as > i know , there’re following  kinds of ways or indexes : > 1.building envelope > OTTV(Overall Thermal Transfer Value), > PAL(Perimeter Annual Load), > U-Value > 2.facility or equipment > CEC/AC(Co-efficient of energy consumption for air conditioning ) > EER(or SEER) > COP > my question is what’s strongpoit and lack of each index? > thks!

    BEI is usually given in :                                             btu/sq.ft.year(or month) I use: btu/sq.ft./degreeday.  This takes the varibleness of weather away.

    Response:


  • Quasiturbine better than Fuel-cell locomotives ?

    Question:

    Bonjour, voici un extrait de Reuter New of August 28, 2003 intitle : Fuel Cell Locomotive Could Free Subways from Grid NEW YORK – The hundreds of thousands of subway passengers trapped for hours on the New York City subways during the largest North American blackout earlier this month take note: one day subways could run independent of the electricity grid. The Denver-based Fuelcell Propulsion Institute plans to convert a 120-ton diesel locomotive into a fuel cell-driven train, a project that could one day make fuel cells a reality for subways.  "Subway systems running on the grid is obviously a precarious proposition," said Arnold Miller, spokesman for the five-year project. "Fuel cell subways would not be dependent on the grid." (…) Complete story at : http://www.planetark.org/dailynewsstory.cfm/newsid/22015/story.htm Here is the reaction we got from a transportation reasearcher: Pneumatic Quasiturbine better than Fuel-cell locomotives in tunnels by : Harry Valentine Operating a fuel-cell locomotive on the subways is not good during the summer months, when the weather is hot and humid. The fuel cell locomotives have an exhaust will release humidity into the subway tunnels ……. and make the subways very uncomfortable for subway users. The subway does use a lot of expensive electricity (purchased at industrial rates) during the rush hours. It is cheaper to buy the electricity between 12:00AM and 6:00AM to recharge the trains. Many years ago, compressed air (800-psi / 55-bar) locomotives were used in coal mines. There was an intermediate tank (280-psi / 19-bar) that supplied air to compound cylinders. Recharge was done from tanks of compressed air, located outside the coal mine. The American Porter company manufactured compressed air locomotives. At the present day, air tanks can hold 4,000-psi (275-bar). These tanks are used to transport compressed natural gas and also hydrogen gas, on the railways. The same tanks can be used on a modern compressed air locomotive. The high pressure air would feed into an intermediate tank, that could then feed air into compound-expansion Quasiturbine engines. For operation in subways, the air can be dried during the summer months, so that dry air is released in the subway tunnels. For recharge, stationary high-pressure air tanks would be located on the subway system. This will allow for fast recharge (10-minutes) of compressed air locomotives operating in subways. Much of the air can be compressed between 12:00AM and 6:00AM, when electricity prices are low. Atmospheric air is much safer to use in tunnels. There has never been any tank explosions on compressed air locomotives. In the event of a collision, hydrogen could burn in the subways and cause serious problems. If a disaster happens, a compressed air locomotive will not cause any fires. If the the high-pressure tank leaks, it will releace atmospheric air into the subway system ….. and this air is very safe for people to breathe in. * * * * * Meilleures salutations, Gilles www.quasiturbine.com

    Response:

    (Sorrry, a part was missing in the pr


  • Home humidity – increasing after remediation?

    Question:

    This summer, I have been attempting to rectify moisture problems in a 40 year-old brick veneer ranch home (one storey) with a crawlspace. This home is located in North Carolina where high humidity is the rule. Below are the steps currently taken: 1) Installed heat pump (14 seer).  Home was originally cooled via window units.  The indoor portion of the system is installed in the crawlspace. 2) Replaced insulation between floor joists in crawlspace.  Original insulation had fallen down in spots and was moldy in many areas. 3) Installed plastic vapor barrier (4-mil cross-laminate poly) over entire ground surface in crawlspace.  Overlapped and taped seams.  Ran plastic 4-6 inches up crawlspace walls. 4) Sealed interior crawlspace walls with UGL waterproof paint.  Also painted UGL on outside walls in one corner where improper grading led to excessive moisture. 5) Replaced all windows.  (This was done more for energy efficiency, rather than humidity control). 6) Dug trench down to footing around house in above mentioned corner. Placed Akwadrain sheet drain against foundation.  Installed solid pipe to carry downspout output away from structure.  Backfilled in trench with gravel up to 6 inches from surface, then remainder with dirt. 7) Temporarily sealed crawlspace vents and installed crawlspace exhaust fan in remaining open vent to create negative pressure in crawlspace. Before accomplishing tasks 6 & 7, the humidity had been running around 48 – 51% with the A/C running (thermostat set for 70 degrees) and a Sears 50-pint dehumidifier running full-time in the center of the home.  The dehumidifier would normally need to be emptied every 1.5 days.  After steps 6 & 7, the humidity has been running 53% – 56% and up to 61%, if the dehumidifier is off (it fills up in a little less than a day now.)  Outdoor humidity was in the 73% – 100% range both before and after that crawlspace sealing, so I don’t think that is a factor in the humidity increase. My suspicion is that sealing the crawlspace vents is the culprit. There seems to be two schools of thought with regards to keeping them open in the summer in the southeast.  Some state that the vents must be kept open for proper air flow, others state that the vents are only pulling in humid air from the outside.  The latter group suggests sealing the crawlspace and creating negative pressure with a vent fan, thereby allowing the cooler, drier air from inside the house dry the crawlspace.  Oddly enough, I’ve notice a few "hot spots" throughout the house and think that attic air is now being pulled down into the living area.  I’ve re-opened one of the vents to see what, if any, difference it makes. It may be that humidity levels in the low 60% range are ok for a home in North Carolina, but I would like to have a few second opinions. Thanks! Scott

    Response:

    Move to AZ crybaby.

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This summer, I have been attempting to rectify moisture problems in a > 40 year-old brick veneer ranch home (one storey) with a crawlspace. > This home is located in North Carolina where high humidity is the > rule. Below are the steps currently taken: > 1) Installed heat pump (14 seer).  Home was originally cooled via > window units.  The indoor portion of the system is installed in the > crawlspace. > 2) Replaced insulation between floor joists in crawlspace.  Original > insulation had fallen down in spots and was moldy in many areas. > 3) Installed plastic vapor barrier (4-mil cross-laminate poly) over > entire ground surface in crawlspace.  Overlapped and taped seams.  Ran > plastic 4-6 inches up crawlspace walls. > 4) Sealed interior crawlspace walls with UGL waterproof paint.  Also > painted UGL on outside walls in one corner where improper grading led > to excessive moisture. > 5) Replaced all windows.  (This was done more for energy efficiency, > rather than humidity control). > 6) Dug trench down to footing around house in above mentioned corner. > Placed Akwadrain sheet drain against foundation.  Installed solid pipe > to carry downspout output away from structure.  Backfilled in trench > with gravel up to 6 inches from surface, then remainder with dirt. > 7) Temporarily sealed crawlspace vents and installed crawlspace > exhaust fan in remaining open vent to create negative pressure in > crawlspace. > Before accomplishing tasks 6 & 7, the humidity had been running around > 48 – 51% with the A/C running (thermostat set for 70 degrees) and a > Sears 50-pint dehumidifier running full-time in the center of the > home.  The dehumidifier would normally need to be emptied every 1.5 > days.  After steps 6 & 7, the humidity has been running 53% – 56% and > up to 61%, if the dehumidifier is off (it fills up in a little less > than a day now.)  Outdoor humidity was in the 73% – 100% range both > before and after that crawlspace sealing, so I don’t think that is a > factor in the humidity increase. > My suspicion is that sealing the crawlspace vents is the culprit. > There seems to be two schools of thought with regards to keeping them > open in the summer in the southeast.  Some state that the vents must > be kept open for proper air flow, others state that the vents are only > pulling in humid air from the outside.  The latter group suggests > sealing the crawlspace and creating negative pressure with a vent fan, > thereby allowing the cooler, drier air from inside the house dry the > crawlspace.  Oddly enough, I’ve notice a few "hot spots" throughout > the house and think that attic air is now being pulled down into the > living area.  I’ve re-opened one of the vents to see what, if any, > difference it makes. > It may be that humidity levels in the low 60% range are ok for a home > in North Carolina, but I would like to have a few second opinions. > Thanks! > Scott

    I think you’re on target about the fan pulling hot/moist attic air down. If you add up all the sq inches of penetration holes to the attic, it will be a sizeable gap even if there is no unusual construction opening. Unless you get the humidity down to 50-55%, you will encourage mildew growth. Jim

    Response:

    Not from me – looks like the kids are stuck inside – must be raining. Jim – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Move to AZ crybaby.

    Response:

    I think your negative air pressure in the crawlspace is the problem, the air the fan takes out has to be replaced somehow, and it seems to be from your air conditioned space which in turn is pulling air in any crack and opening possible. Why don’t you do what we in the great north, Canada do. It isn’t cold all the time up here, especially in the great lakes region. In summer we have temperatures ranging from mid 70’s up to 100, with humidity levels from 60% up to 90%, and this year we seem to be getting a lot of rain which keeps the humidity levels high. Because of deep frost in the winter, we have to have foundations 4 feet deep minimum, virtually every house has a basement. Basements can be damp and humid if nothing is done. Normally air conditioning uses the heating ducts to distribute the cool air, resulting in the basement being air conditioned. This dries up all moisture, I have never had any bare iron tools gather any rust dispite the high humidity outside. Possibly you should seal up your crawlspace fan, and add airconditioning supply and return ducts into the space to remove all the moisture. I am sure it will work just as it does with a basement.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This summer, I have been attempting to rectify moisture problems in a > 40 year-old brick veneer ranch home (one storey) with a crawlspace. > This home is located in North Carolina where high humidity is the > rule. Below are the steps currently taken: > 1) Installed heat pump (14 seer).  Home was originally cooled via > window units.  The indoor portion of the system is installed in the > crawlspace. > 2) Replaced insulation between floor joists in crawlspace.  Original > insulation had fallen down in spots and was moldy in many areas. > 3) Installed plastic vapor barrier (4-mil cross-laminate poly) over > entire ground surface in crawlspace.  Overlapped and taped seams.  Ran > plastic 4-6 inches up crawlspace walls. > 4) Sealed interior crawlspace walls with UGL waterproof paint.  Also > painted UGL on outside walls in one corner where improper grading led > to excessive moisture. > 5) Replaced all windows.  (This was done more for energy efficiency, > rather than humidity control). > 6) Dug trench down to footing around house in above mentioned corner. > Placed Akwadrain sheet drain against foundation.  Installed solid pipe > to carry downspout output away from structure.  Backfilled in trench > with gravel up to 6 inches from surface, then remainder with dirt. > 7) Temporarily sealed crawlspace vents and installed crawlspace > exhaust fan in remaining open vent to create negative pressure in > crawlspace. > Before accomplishing tasks 6 & 7, the humidity had been running around > 48 – 51% with the A/C running (thermostat set for 70 degrees) and a > Sears 50-pint dehumidifier running full-time in the center of the > home.  The dehumidifier would normally need to be emptied every 1.5 > days.  After steps 6 & 7, the humidity has been running 53% – 56% and > up to 61%, if the dehumidifier is off (it fills up in a little less > than a day now.)  Outdoor humidity was in the 73% – 100% range both > before and after that crawlspace sealing, so I don’t think that is a > factor in the humidity increase. > My suspicion is that sealing the crawlspace vents is the culprit. > There seems to be two schools of thought with regards to keeping them > open in the summer in the southeast.  Some state that the vents must > be kept open for proper air flow, others state that the vents are only > pulling in humid air from the outside.  The latter group suggests > sealing the crawlspace and creating negative pressure with a vent fan, > thereby allowing the cooler, drier air from inside the house dry the > crawlspace.  Oddly enough, I’ve notice a few "hot spots" throughout > the house and think that attic air is now being pulled down into the > living area.  I’ve re-opened one of the vents to see what, if any, > difference it makes. > It may be that humidity levels in the low 60% range are ok for a home > in North Carolina, but I would like to have a few second opinions. > Thanks! > Scott

    Response:

    Move to AZ crybaby. Path: newsengine.sol.net!news-out.visi.com!petbe.visi.com!in.100proofnews.com!in. 100proofnews.com!newsfeed.media.kyoto-u.ac.jp!news.cn99.com!not-for-mail Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Organization: Bentium Ltd. (CN99) Lines: 1 NNTP-Posting-Host: 61.159.235.36 X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.21/32.243

    Response:

    > This summer, I have been attempting to rectify moisture problems in a > 40 year-old brick veneer ranch home (one storey) with a crawlspace. > This home is located in North Carolina where high humidity is the > rule. Below are the steps currently taken: > 1) Installed heat pump (14 seer).  Home was originally cooled via > window units.  The indoor portion of the system is installed in the > crawlspace.

        Make sure all the ducts are well sealed. > 2) Replaced insulation between floor joists in crawlspace.  Original > insulation had fallen down in spots and was moldy in many areas. > 3) Installed plastic vapor barrier (4-mil cross-laminate poly) over > entire ground surface in crawlspace.  Overlapped and taped seams.  Ran > plastic 4-6 inches up crawlspace walls.

        Good. > 4) Sealed interior crawlspace walls with UGL waterproof paint.  Also > painted UGL on outside walls in one corner where improper grading led > to excessive moisture.

        !!! Improper grading !!! > 5) Replaced all windows.  (This was done more for energy efficiency, > rather than humidity control). > 6) Dug trench down to footing around house in above mentioned corner. > Placed Akwadrain sheet drain against foundation.  Installed solid pipe > to carry downspout output away from structure.  Backfilled in trench > with gravel up to 6 inches from surface, then remainder with dirt.

        Did I miss something?  How are you draining the water from the base of the foundation? > 7) Temporarily sealed crawlspace vents and installed crawlspace > exhaust fan in remaining open vent to create negative pressure in > crawlspace.

        Bad idea.  Never create a negative pressure.  You can’t get rid of air (moisture) without replacing it with something. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Before accomplishing tasks 6 & 7, the humidity had been running around > 48 – 51% with the A/C running (thermostat set for 70 degrees) and a > Sears 50-pint dehumidifier running full-time in the center of the > home.  The dehumidifier would normally need to be emptied every 1.5 > days.  After steps 6 & 7, the humidity has been running 53% – 56% and > up to 61%, if the dehumidifier is off (it fills up in a little less > than a day now.)  Outdoor humidity was in the 73% – 100% range both > before and after that crawlspace sealing, so I don’t think that is a > factor in the humidity increase. > My suspicion is that sealing the crawlspace vents is the culprit. > There seems to be two schools of thought with regards to keeping them > open in the summer in the southeast.  Some state that the vents must > be kept open for proper air flow, others state that the vents are only > pulling in humid air from the outside.  The latter group suggests > sealing the crawlspace and creating negative pressure with a vent fan, > thereby allowing the cooler, drier air from inside the house dry the > crawlspace.  Oddly enough, I’ve notice a few "hot spots" throughout > the house and think that attic air is now being pulled down into the > living area.  I’ve re-opened one of the vents to see what, if any, > difference it makes.

        I would open up the vents in the craw space and make sure they are large enough.  That will keep the craw space humidity close to that outside. Blocking it will just increase it.     As an alturnative, you can start heating and cooling it, but I would not bother. > It may be that humidity levels in the low 60% range are ok for a home > in North Carolina, but I would like to have a few second opinions.

        Unless you are using professional equipment to measure it your readings are likely to be +- 10-15%  I suggest not worring about a specific number, but rather decide if you are comfortable inside your home.  If not, then it is very possible that the HVAC is not properly sized.  Too big is not good.     I don’t like two things. First the grading problem needs to be fixed, not patched.  You need to regrade.  You also need to open up those vents. > Thanks! > Scott

    – Joseph E. Meehan 26 + 6 = 1  It’s Irish Math

    Response:


  • Typical Temp Differential on Home A/C ?

    Question:

    We have central air and we keep it at 74 inside and it is comfortable and cool. If people come in and  go outside a lot, I  have to keep it cooler. I set the thermostat on automatic- which includes the fan and the a/c. I have an indoor tempature on this thermostat and it gives me an idea when it gets warmer or  cooler. My system is 5 years old and I had it checked for energy efficiency last year and it is in good condition.

    Response:

    > In order to get an idea of how well my home A/C unit is working, I measured > the temperatures of the air re-entering the unit at the duct below it, and > also at two outlets at different locations in the house.  On a reasonably > hot day during a recent pre-summer heat wave, I got a temperature difference > of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy system, > or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?  I had that done > about seven years ago, and since then I do annual cleaning of the outside > unit, and the ducting is in good shape.  I’ve read that a home system, > unlike a car, can hold its coolant charge for many years.  Any advice? >   — Magnusfarce

    That is very much in line with what I measure: 78 in and 58-60 out. I’ve gone so far as to install permanent thermometers — the little stainless steel dial and probe style that every AC guy seems to carry — into my ductwork. The outlet measurement is done right above the evaporator and the inlet measurement is done at an equal height in the main return duct 18" away. I just drilled a hole in each location and inserted the thermometers — can’t remember which number drill bit I needed but after a few trys I hit one which gave a tight fit. Having them in place permanently means I don’t have to go looking for the right tool when I want to find out what is happening with the HVAC. — John McGaw [Knoxville, TN, USA] Return address will not work. Please reply in group or through my website: http://johnmcgaw.com

    Response:

    What’s this got to do with the "Original Question"? kjpro

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have central air and we keep it at 74 inside and it is comfortable > and cool. > If people come in and  go outside a lot, I  have to keep it cooler. > I set the thermostat on automatic- which includes the fan and the a/c. I > have an indoor tempature on this thermostat and it gives me an idea when > it gets warmer or  cooler. > My system is 5 years old and I had it checked for energy efficiency last > year and it is in good condition.

    Response:

    kjpro posted for all of us…. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What’s this got to do with the "Original Question"? > kjpro > We have central air and we keep it at 74 inside and it is comfortable > and cool. > If people come in and  go outside a lot, I  have to keep it cooler. > I set the thermostat on automatic- which includes the fan and the a/c. I > have an indoor tempature on this thermostat and it gives me an idea when > it gets warmer or  cooler. > My system is 5 years old and I had it checked for energy efficiency last > year and it is in good condition.

    I had trouble figuring that myself.  I just concluded it’s an aberration of another infamous poster.  I see he’s outdoing himself in other posts.  I just hope nobody follows his advice & gets hurt. — Tekkie

    Response:

    Magnusfarce writes: > I got a temperature difference > of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy > system, or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?

    It depends on the air flow and relative humidity, among other things.  As the duct filters and/or evaporator get clogged, or if the ducts or fan are improperly designed, airflow is reduced, and the temp difference "improves", yet you are getting *less* effect.  If the flow is good (clean filters, sound design) then 15 to 20 deg F is a good rule of thumb for a crude performance check.  This is *after* the system has had hours or days to lower and stabilize the relative humidity; high humidity inside the house (if the system hasn’t been running for some time) will delay temp differences until the system dries the air. I keep a $10 Wal-Mart digital thermometer permanently mounted on several of my A/C output ducts.  This plus the thermostat ambient temp reading lets you check the system with next to no effort, if you have a compulsive need to know day to day that your $100s in increased electric power bills are being well spent.

    Response:

    Shirley Thebaglady posted for all of us…. > We have central air and we keep it at 74 inside and it is comfortable > and cool. > If people come in and  go outside a lot, I  have to keep it cooler. > I set the thermostat on automatic- which includes the fan and the a/c. I > have an indoor tempature on this thermostat and it gives me an idea when > it gets warmer or  cooler. > My system is 5 years old and I had it checked for energy efficiency last > year and it is in good condition.

    Boy, this really addresses the OP question spot on!  I’m amazed! — Tekkie

    Response:

    In order to get an idea of how well my home A/C unit is working, I measured the temperatures of the air re-entering the unit at the duct below it, and also at two outlets at different locations in the house.  On a reasonably hot day during a recent pre-summer heat wave, I got a temperature difference of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy system, or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?  I had that done about seven years ago, and since then I do annual cleaning of the outside unit, and the ducting is in good shape.  I’ve read that a home system, unlike a car, can hold its coolant charge for many years.  Any advice?   — Magnusfarce

    Response:

    I think 19 is plenty good. I’m sure you’ll get a bunch of replies some that read like "consider yourself lucky, the best mine can do is 15" Bk

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In order to get an idea of how well my home A/C unit is working, I measured > the temperatures of the air re-entering the unit at the duct below it, and > also at two outlets at different locations in the house.  On a reasonably > hot day during a recent pre-summer heat wave, I got a temperature difference > of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy system, > or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?  I had that done > about seven years ago, and since then I do annual cleaning of the outside > unit, and the ducting is in good shape.  I’ve read that a home system, > unlike a car, can hold its coolant charge for many years.  Any advice? >   — Magnusfarce

    Response:

    Nice to know I’m not the only one that check’s their A/C this way… <grin> I get about an 18 – 20 degree difference on my A/C.  Last year I did have the A/C checked during the annual furnace check, and the tech mentioned that my system was a bit over-charged. I was surprised, since the A/C hadn’t been touched since 1985 when it was installed… Bob.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In order to get an idea of how well my home A/C unit is working, I measured > the temperatures of the air re-entering the unit at the duct below it, and > also at two outlets at different locations in the house.  On a reasonably > hot day during a recent pre-summer heat wave, I got a temperature difference > of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy system, > or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?  I had that done > about seven years ago, and since then I do annual cleaning of the outside > unit, and the ducting is in good shape.  I’ve read that a home system, > unlike a car, can hold its coolant charge for many years.  Any advice? >   — Magnusfarce

    Response:

    I have an indoor/outdoor thermometer in my bedroom and the outdoor sensor is down in the heating duct. When the AC is on and working, the temp in the duct is between 58 and 60F, and the house is 74-76F. I can maintain this temp even when it’s 95 outside, but only if I leave the system on all day. Once it gets the house up to 78, it has a hard time getting it back down to 76. I think there are at least two ways of judging how good the system is working: differential temp in the ducts and inside/outside differential. I’m happy with my cooling, but the system doesn’t appear to remove as much water as it used to. Bob M. ======

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In order to get an idea of how well my home A/C unit is working, I > measured > the temperatures of the air re-entering the unit at the duct below it, and > also at two outlets at different locations in the house.  On a reasonably > hot day during a recent pre-summer heat wave, I got a temperature > difference > of 19 degrees (81 in, 62 out).  Do these numbers suggest a healthy system, > or do I need to have the system gone through by a pro?  I had that done > about seven years ago, and since then I do annual cleaning of the outside > unit, and the ducting is in good shape.  I’ve read that a home system, > unlike a car, can hold its coolant charge for many years.  Any advice? >   — Magnusfarce > That is very much in line with what I measure: 78 in and 58-60 out. I’ve > gone so far as to install permanent thermometers — the little stainless > steel dial and probe style that every AC guy seems to carry — into my > ductwork. The outlet measurement is done right above the evaporator and the > inlet measurement is done at an equal height in the main return duct 18" > away. I just drilled a hole in each location and inserted the > thermometers — can’t remember which number drill bit I needed but after a > few trys I hit one which gave a tight fit. Having them in place permanently > means I don’t have to go looking for the right tool when I want to find out > what is happening with the HVAC. > — > John McGaw > [Knoxville, TN, USA] > Return address will not work. Please > reply in group or through my website: > http://johnmcgaw.com

    Response:


  • Which Mobil 1 oil has closer characteristics to the 5W-20 grade?

    Question:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I think MB has investigated the "risks." > LOL… just like when they have "investigated" the risks of letting people > run dino oil on Flexible Service System (FSS) schedule a couple of years ago > that cost them a pretty penny? > http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000146166.cfm?x=a1F3Slh,a13FsCnP > Cheers, > Pete

    Out of that experience was born M1 0w-40.  So yes, I think they know more about the performance levels of current dino vs. synthetic oils in their FSS system than you do. Be as pessimistic as you like.   If an owner of a vehicle with an Oil Life Monitoring System chooses to run an oil OTHER THAN the one called for in the service book…. and the engine sludges up …. who’s to blame?  Thank you. —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    Response:

    > Out of that experience was born M1 0w-40.  So yes, I think they know > more about the performance levels of current dino vs. synthetic oils in > their FSS system than you do. Be as pessimistic as you like.   If an > owner of a vehicle with an Oil Life Monitoring System chooses to run an > oil OTHER THAN the one called for in the service book…. and the > engine sludges up …. who’s to blame?  Thank you.

    But that’s exactly the point – they didn’t specify that the oil had to be synthetic.  That’s why all this FSS blew up in their face. I have nothing against M1 0w-40; heck, I use it myself.  I’m just saying, don’t rely on one company’s oil recommendations because they may not always be right. Cheers, Pete

    Response:

    >>Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? [snip] >I think the answer lies in Honda’s alternative and previous history of >recommendations.  e.g. for my 2K Accord the recommendation is 5W/30 with >the alternative of 10W/30 for temps down to 20F.  Remember those are also >for "economy" grade mineral based oils.  What does the owner manual >actually specify for oil?… is there an alternative to the 5W/20?  My >advice, when the exact recommended grade is not available, would be to go >up rather than down in SAE numbers, especially if you live in a temperate >climate.

    I see, I see.  Thanks for your reply, George, even though you’re not particuarly fond of SUV’s ;-)  So, if I were to go up in SAE numbers from the 5W-20 grade, then which should I be using, Mobil 1’s 0W-20 or the 5W-30 grade?  Sorry, nobody ever accused me of being sharp. Thanks.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Out of that experience was born M1 0w-40.  So yes, I think they know > more about the performance levels of current dino vs. synthetic oils in > their FSS system than you do. Be as pessimistic as you like.   If an > owner of a vehicle with an Oil Life Monitoring System chooses to run an > oil OTHER THAN the one called for in the service book…. and the > engine sludges up …. who’s to blame?  Thank you. > But that’s exactly the point – they didn’t specify that the oil had to be > synthetic.  That’s why all this FSS blew up in their face. > I have nothing against M1 0w-40; heck, I use it myself.  I’m just saying, > don’t rely on one company’s oil recommendations because they may not always > be right. > Cheers, > Pete

    Surely there is a learning curve with all cutting edge technology.  You know this.  But what seems odd is that once along the learing curve, you wish to continue chastising a company for past errors.  Now… when the oil recommendation is QUITE specific for the car manufacturer’s oil monitoring system to work correctly, then using an different oil (talking about composition, NOT viscosity) then all bets are off.   But if it is as you say that nothing more than an oil weight was identified well then…. (see "learning curve") —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    Response:

    > I strongly suspect that the Mobil SuperSyn has no tradittional VI improver > additive at all – the VI enhancement comes from the SuperSyn components > which are themselves PAOs – so the usual shear of the additive is not a > concern.  I think your right about the use of a 5W/xx or 10W/30 though – no > need for 0W/xx unless necessary and I still suspect there are risks which > have not been fully investigated. > Rgds, George Macdonald

    Mercedes Benz has endorsed Mobil1 0w-40 for awhile now and it’s the only M1 product to meet/exceed MB 229.3 and 229.5 tesing.  Also meets ACEA A3/B4-02 and B3-98.  I think MB has investigated the "risks." —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    Response:

    > I think MB has investigated the "risks."

    LOL… just like when they have "investigated" the risks of letting people run dino oil on Flexible Service System (FSS) schedule a couple of years ago that cost them a pretty penny? http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000146166.cfm?x=a1F3Slh,a13FsCnP Cheers, Pete

    Response:

    Plenty about SAE, API, ILSAC requirements/test procedure, plus ISO and JASO. If  I needed a chemistry lesson, my retired uncle with 35 years as a Texaco petroleum engineer, was just a phone call away. Jon

    >Well, I work as Toyota service advisor, and in the past, as a petroleum >sales rep for the largest Valvoline distributor in the US. I was also the >training director for a chain of 15 quick lubes. > Sales reps are not what one usually thinks of as tribology experts.  How > much do you actually know about the SAE, API & ILSAC grading systems, > molecular structure, viscosity measurement and its effects and all the > other characteristics of lubricants? > Rgds, George Macdonald > "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who,

    me??

    Response:

    > But is there any car that actually specifies 0W-20?  Wouldn’t it make > sense for them to market 5W-20, which is specified by many Honda and > Ford vehicles these days?

    AFAIK, Honda Insight specifies 0w-20. Cheers, Pete

    Response:

    >SNIP< > As to Honda, I wonder how they’d explain the lab results of the > *factory* fill on my 2002 Si which revealed an operating temperature > viscosity of < 10W at 5500 miles. Hell, the lab thought there must be > gasoline in the oil but there wasn’t any nor any clue as to the results.

    Probably a break-in oil for American drivers who are usually frightened to death to gouge on the gas pedal during the first 300 miles. —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    Response:

    >Well, I work as Toyota service advisor, and in the past, as a petroleum >sales rep for the largest Valvoline distributor in the US. I was also the >training director for a chain of 15 quick lubes.

    Sales reps are not what one usually thinks of as tribology experts.  How much do you actually know about the SAE, API & ILSAC grading systems, molecular structure, viscosity measurement and its effects and all the other characteristics of lubricants? Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

    Response:

    >> As an aside, now that Mobil markets M1 0W-30, I wonder how long they > will continue making 5W-30? Why will people still want the extra > viscosity of 5W during the winter time? >The smaller the viscosity spread, the more shear-stable the oil.  That’s why >Mobil will continue to make 5w-30 and 10w-30 for those who don’t live in >Alaska.

    I strongly suspect that the Mobil SuperSyn has no tradittional VI improver additive at all – the VI enhancement comes from the SuperSyn components which are themselves PAOs – so the usual shear of the additive is not a concern.  I think your right about the use of a 5W/xx or 10W/30 though – no need for 0W/xx unless necessary and I still suspect there are risks which have not been fully investigated. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? >The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my >SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the >dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade >of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided >to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). >They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use >5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that >Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube >characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service >advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". >But it was my understanding that the only thing different between >0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the >SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s >the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. >I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve >came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service >advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the >incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? >I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now >after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    I think the answer lies in Honda’s alternative and previous history of recommendations.  e.g. for my 2K Accord the recommendation is 5W/30 with the alternative of 10W/30 for temps down to 20F.  Remember those are also for "economy" grade mineral based oils.  What does the owner manual actually specify for oil?… is there an alternative to the 5W/20?  My advice, when the exact recommended grade is not available, would be to go up rather than down in SAE numbers, especially if you live in a temperate climate. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

    Response:

    I have switched to AMSOIL over Mobil. You can get it in a 5W-20 and the price is better and meets or exceeds any specs of the Mobil 1. I also run it in my motorcycles…and I’m even more picky about what goes into my bikes :-) http://www.amsoil.com/products/xl7500.html No, I don’t work for Amsoil :-) We go through quite a few cases of the motorcycle stuff each hear, so I pay that Preferred Dealer fee but get a big break on price. Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my > SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the > dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade > of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided > to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). > They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use > 5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that > Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube > characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service > advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". > But it was my understanding that the only thing different between > 0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the > SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s > the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. > I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve > came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service > advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the > incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? > I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now > after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? >The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my >SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the >dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade >of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided >to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). >They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use >5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that >Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube >characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service >advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". >   They could claim that 0W-20 caused any internal damage and void the > warranty – and that’s a huge concern to you.

    They can claim anything they want. Proof’s another story and the burden is on them – at least in the US. My oil analyst says there’s little difference between real synthetic 0W-20 & 5W-20 &, interestingly 0W-30 in terms of viscosity. Mobil Oil says 0W-20 was designed for cars that use 5W-20. Point is, it doesn’t make much difference and dealerships are the last place I’d look for advice. As to Honda, I wonder how they’d explain the lab results of the *factory* fill on my 2002 Si which revealed an operating temperature viscosity of < 10W at 5500 miles. Hell, the lab thought there must be gasoline in the oil but there wasn’t any nor any clue as to the results.

    Response:

    >It makes no sense for Mobil to market a 5W-20 synthetic when the >technology easily allows them to do better — hence the 0W-20.  Why >would you want extra viscosity in a synthetic oil under cold conditions?

    But is there any car that actually specifies 0W-20?  Wouldn’t it make sense for them to market 5W-20, which is specified by many Honda and Ford vehicles these days? — Timothy J. Lee Unsolicited bulk or commercial email is not welcome. No warranty of any kind is provided with this message.

    Response:

    Use the maximum oil viscosity recommended for use in your service manual. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my > SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the > dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade > of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided > to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). > They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use > 5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that > Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube > characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service > advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". > But it was my understanding that the only thing different between > 0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the > SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s > the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. > I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve > came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service > advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the > incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? > I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now > after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    Response:

    Interesting is that only M1 0w-40 meets Mercedes’ toughest MB229.3 and 229.5 specs.  M1 5w-30 and 10w-30 do not.  I haven’t seen a bottle of M1 0w-20 or 5w-20 yet.  Southern California isn’t a place to get concerned about cold cranking temps.  LOL —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Steve, > I think you are correct and your advisors are misinformed. > It makes no sense for Mobil to market a 5W-20 synthetic when the > technology easily allows them to do better — hence the 0W-20.  Why > would you want extra viscosity in a synthetic oil under cold conditions? > (Ideally the oil would have the same viscosity under all conditions. Now > what that ideal viscosity might be remains a good question!) > The reason Honda specifies 5W-20 oil instead of 0W-20 is that mineral > oils can’t achieve the 0W rating, and most customers wouldn’t pay the > extra cost for a pure synthetic that would be required. > So I think using M1 0W-20 should be acceptable for your Honda. In fact > Mobil recommends the 0W-20 as a substitute for 5W-20. Check the label. > As an aside, now that Mobil markets M1 0W-30, I wonder how long they > will continue making 5W-30? Why will people still want the extra > viscosity of 5W during the winter time? > Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my > SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the > dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade > of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided > to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). > They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use > 5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that > Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube > characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service > advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". > But it was my understanding that the only thing different between > 0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the > SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s > the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. > I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve > came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service > advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the > incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? > I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now > after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    Response:

    Steve, I think you are correct and your advisors are misinformed. It makes no sense for Mobil to market a 5W-20 synthetic when the technology easily allows them to do better — hence the 0W-20.  Why would you want extra viscosity in a synthetic oil under cold conditions? (Ideally the oil would have the same viscosity under all conditions. Now what that ideal viscosity might be remains a good question!) The reason Honda specifies 5W-20 oil instead of 0W-20 is that mineral oils can’t achieve the 0W rating, and most customers wouldn’t pay the extra cost for a pure synthetic that would be required. So I think using M1 0W-20 should be acceptable for your Honda. In fact Mobil recommends the 0W-20 as a substitute for 5W-20. Check the label. As an aside, now that Mobil markets M1 0W-30, I wonder how long they will continue making 5W-30? Why will people still want the extra viscosity of 5W during the winter time? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my > SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the > dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade > of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided > to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). > They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use > 5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that > Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube > characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service > advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". > But it was my understanding that the only thing different between > 0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the > SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s > the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. > I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve > came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service > advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the > incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? > I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now > after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    Response:

    What percentage would you say are clueless?  ;^) —   ~Philip "Multiculturalism and coercive tolerance of bizarre lifestyles describes a social experiment, not a civilization." –Paul Gottfried

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Well, I work as Toyota service advisor, and in the past, as a petroleum > sales rep for the largest Valvoline distributor in the US. I was also the > training director for a chain of 15 quick lubes. > Don’t assume all service advisors are clueless. > Jon > > > Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > > If it was my car, I’d use 5w-30.  I don’t know if it’s closer to 5w-20 > than > > 0w-20, but I’d rather give my engine too much top end protection than > too > > little. > > Cheers, > > Pete > These oils have the same viscosity at the specified temperature! >  0W-? at -30C >  5W-? at -25C > Not a whole lot of difference, and pretty meaningless during summer. > Service advisors have 2 words wrong in their job title. > Oil experts? NOT! > You can find usually intelligent oil discussions at: > http://theoildrop.server101.com > They tended to be quite skeptical about the 0W- oils, but analysis is > proving that they actually are quite good with a minimal amount of wear > metals. So much for too thin! > The "20" part is more in between 20 & 30 then close to 20. Since they > don’t rate the second number in increments of 5, 20 is the closer number. > They also tend to have a good dose of molybdenum in them. > — > To Email me, change snot to hot

    Response:

    > As an aside, now that Mobil markets M1 0W-30, I wonder how long they > will continue making 5W-30? Why will people still want the extra > viscosity of 5W during the winter time?

    The smaller the viscosity spread, the more shear-stable the oil.  That’s why Mobil will continue to make 5w-30 and 10w-30 for those who don’t live in Alaska. Cheers, Pete

    Response:

    >Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? >The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my >SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the >dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade >of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided >to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). >They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use >5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that >Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube >characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service >advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light".

      They could claim that 0W-20 caused any internal damage and void the warranty – and that’s a huge concern to you.   The 5W-30 synthetic is so good at low-temperature duty (down into the -10 and -20 F area) that you only need to drop to the 0W-20 when it gets into the -50 F range – and there are a whole raft of other concerns besides oil when you try to make a car start reliably at those extreme cold temperatures. >But it was my understanding that the only thing different between >0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the >SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s >the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30.

      If the car calls for a 5W-20 dinosaur oil, use the 5W-30 Mobil1 synthetic.  It provides the minimum viscosity required by your warranty, and even though the hot viscosity rating is "heavier" it will still be physically thinner and provide better lubricating and energy efficiency qualities.   And it’s easier to buy the 5W-30 and 10W-30 formulas anywhere.             –<< Bruce >>– — Bruce L. Bergman, POB 394, Woodland Hills CA 91365, USA Electrician, Westend Electric (#726700) Agoura, CA WARNING:  UCE Spam E-mail is not welcome here.  I report violators. SpamBlock In Use – Remove the "Python" with a "net" to E-Mail.

    Response:

    > > Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > If it was my car, I’d use 5w-30.  I don’t know if it’s closer to 5w-20 than > 0w-20, but I’d rather give my engine too much top end protection than too > little. > Cheers, > Pete

    These oils have the same viscosity at the specified temperature!  0W-? at -30C  5W-? at -25C Not a whole lot of difference, and pretty meaningless during summer. Service advisors have 2 words wrong in their job title. Oil experts? NOT! You can find usually intelligent oil discussions at: http://theoildrop.server101.com They tended to be quite skeptical about the 0W- oils, but analysis is proving that they actually are quite good with a minimal amount of wear metals. So much for too thin! The "20" part is more in between 20 & 30 then close to 20. Since they don’t rate the second number in increments of 5, 20 is the closer number. They also tend to have a good dose of molybdenum in them. — To Email me, change snot to hot

    Response:

    Well, I work as Toyota service advisor, and in the past, as a petroleum sales rep for the largest Valvoline distributor in the US. I was also the training director for a chain of 15 quick lubes. Don’t assume all service advisors are clueless. Jon

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? > If it was my car, I’d use 5w-30.  I don’t know if it’s closer to 5w-20 than > 0w-20, but I’d rather give my engine too much top end protection than too > little. > Cheers, > Pete > These oils have the same viscosity at the specified temperature! >  0W-? at -30C >  5W-? at -25C > Not a whole lot of difference, and pretty meaningless during summer. > Service advisors have 2 words wrong in their job title. > Oil experts? NOT! > You can find usually intelligent oil discussions at: > http://theoildrop.server101.com > They tended to be quite skeptical about the 0W- oils, but analysis is > proving that they actually are quite good with a minimal amount of wear > metals. So much for too thin! > The "20" part is more in between 20 & 30 then close to 20. Since they > don’t rate the second number in increments of 5, 20 is the closer number. > They also tend to have a good dose of molybdenum in them. > — > To Email me, change snot to hot

    Response:

    > Their 0W-20 or 5W-30?

    If it was my car, I’d use 5w-30.  I don’t know if it’s closer to 5w-20 than 0w-20, but I’d rather give my engine too much top end protection than too little. Cheers, Pete

    Response:

    Their 0W-20 or 5W-30? The reason I ask is because, my 24,000KM (15,000miles) service for my SUV is due soon and want to start using synthetic oil, but since the dealer I usually go to has expressed their reluctance in using a grade of oil other than 5W-20, even if fully synthetic (Mobil 1), I decided to call all the other dealers in town (3 others). They’re letting me use Mobil 1’s oil, but ALL recommended me to use 5W-30, instead of 0W-20.  I was rather surprised since I thought that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 grade was the one that most closely resembled the lube characteristics of the 5W-20.  The general consensus from the service advisors was that Mobil 1’s 0W-20 would be "too light". But it was my understanding that the only thing different between 0W-20 and 5W-20 is the "winter" temperature viscosity set out by the SAE and the viscosity at operating temp is the same.  Whereas, it’s the vise versa between 5W-20 and 5W-30. I’m really confused here.  It’s all Mobil 1’s fault.  They should’ve came out with a 5W-20 as well.  But are all the service advisors/technicians I spoke with misinformed or do I just have the incorrect understanding of the oil grade designation? I do apologize for beating an old horse, but I’m just confused now after having spoken with those service advisors/technicians.

    Response:


  • Selecting Hot Water Heater

    Question:

    I believe 18" off ground min is typical code for *garages* (where flammable liquid storage (gasoline for mowers etc.) is assumed — you just buy a water heater stand made for the purpose — though flue breeching heights etc. could become an issue in old work installs. I am not familiar w/ the aforementioned guideline/requirement/technology, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks.  I’ve heard about the flammability issue before but I thought the > only way to solve it is to mount it about 18" off the ground which would > complicate the installation. > Could you tell me where to get more info about this ‘guideline’?  I think > it’s very applicable to my situation since I have a large unfinished > basement and there are some flammable material stored there ( but away from > the furnace and water heater). > Thanks, > Robert > >I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before > it > >finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I > >should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu > one. > >These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 > respectively. > >I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or > reliability > >with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161. > New flammable vapor guidelines for gas water heaters will go into effect > this > summer so you should start seeing more of these models available in late > spring.  Not much publicity on it at the moment but that too should > increase. > Might want to hold off to buy one of these new units. Price, unfortunately > will > increase..predicted to be between $25-$60 each.

    Response:

    I’d guess the lower firing rate/lower recovery unit is slightly more efficient as the stack temp is likely slightly lower, however the real measure of what to buy is the volunme and firing rate of your present one and whether you ever run it out of hot water. I’d take the slight efficiency hit if I had any doubt about the lower input unit’s ability to keep up.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before it >finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I >should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu one. >These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 respectively. >I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or reliability >with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161. > New flammable vapor guidelines for gas water heaters will go into effect this > summer so you should start seeing more of these models available in late > spring.  Not much publicity on it at the moment but that too should increase. > Might want to hold off to buy one of these new units. Price, unfortunately will > increase..predicted to be between $25-$60 each.

    Response:

    Thanks.  I’ve heard about the flammability issue before but I thought the only way to solve it is to mount it about 18" off the ground which would complicate the installation. Could you tell me where to get more info about this ‘guideline’?  I think it’s very applicable to my situation since I have a large unfinished basement and there are some flammable material stored there ( but away from the furnace and water heater). Thanks, Robert

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before it >finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I >should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu one. >These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 respectively. >I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or reliability >with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161. > New flammable vapor guidelines for gas water heaters will go into effect this > summer so you should start seeing more of these models available in late > spring.  Not much publicity on it at the moment but that too should increase. > Might want to hold off to buy one of these new units. Price, unfortunately will > increase..predicted to be between $25-$60 each.

    Response:

    Right now it’s a 36,000 Btu 40 gal tank but with a growing family it’s more an issue of what I’ll need in the future.  The current water heater is able to do the job if we are just a little careful about timing of laundry, showers and washing dishes. I did notice the lower But model has a piezo electric igniter and cast iron burner vs. no igniter and a stainless steel burner on the high input unit. I guess the stainless steel unit would last longer since there is little chance of rusting(?) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’d guess the lower firing rate/lower recovery unit is slightly more > efficient as the stack temp is likely slightly lower, however the real > measure of what to buy is the volunme and firing rate of your present one > and whether you ever run it out of hot water. I’d take the slight efficiency > hit if I had any doubt about the lower input unit’s ability to keep up. > >I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before > it > >finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I > >should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu > one. > >These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 > respectively. > >I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or > reliability > >with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161. > New flammable vapor guidelines for gas water heaters will go into effect > this > summer so you should start seeing more of these models available in late > spring.  Not much publicity on it at the moment but that too should > increase. > Might want to hold off to buy one of these new units. Price, unfortunately > will > increase..predicted to be between $25-$60 each.

    Response:

    I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before it finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu one. These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 respectively. I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or reliability with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161. Thanks, Robert

    Response:

    >I have a 17 year old gas hot water heater that I’d like to replace before it >finally goes.  I figure I need a 50 gal. unit but need help deciding if I >should get the standard 40,00 btu model or the high output 60,000 btu one. >These are made by A O Smith and are models PGXH-50 and PGXT-50 respectively. >I want to be sure there is no downside in energy efficiency or reliability >with the high output unit.  The cost is an extra $161.

    New flammable vapor guidelines for gas water heaters will go into effect this summer so you should start seeing more of these models available in late spring.  Not much publicity on it at the moment but that too should increase. Might want to hold off to buy one of these new units. Price, unfortunately will increase..predicted to be between $25-$60 each.

    Response:


  • recomendations for Kitchenaid dishwasher?

    Question:

    In my old home I replaced the junky builder’s grade GE dishwasher with a Kitchenaid unit, which was a great investment. Quiet, good cleaning, etc. I’ve been in my new home going on 5 years now, & will be looking to replace my current GE builder’s grade junk again sometime soon. Any recommendations? I would like to stay under $800 installed if possible. TIA David

    Response:

    > In my old home I replaced the junky builder’s grade GE dishwasher with a > Kitchenaid unit, which was a great investment. Quiet, good cleaning, etc. > I’ve been in my new home going on 5 years now, & will be looking to replace > my current GE builder’s grade junk again sometime soon. > Any recommendations? I would like to stay under $800 installed if possible. > TIA > David

    My top of the line Bosch was about 1000. installed but you can get an upper range Bosch for your money. I bought mine from Sears. One of Bosch’s features is that it is completely quiet. Another is its energy efficiency. Kenmore Elite dishwashers clean as well as Bosch but they have a history of noisiness. Their newer ones may be quieter since it is such a competitve feature now. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

    Response:

    > I’ve been in my new home going on 5 years now, & will be looking to replace > my current GE builder’s grade junk again sometime soon. > Any recommendations? I would like to stay under $800 installed if possible.

    Whirlpool/Kitchenaid is good, Maytag is good, Bosch is good, Asko is good … A lot depends on the features you _must_ have (capacity, delay wash, stainless-steel interior, quiet, etc.). I have the second-to-bottom-of-the-line Asko (fits your price ballpark) and it’s fine. It’s pretty quiet (could be quieter, but I think the installation location amplifies some sound), washes everything relatively quickly and efficiently (about 4 gallons per cycle) and gets the stuff (even the plasticware) dry. Simple controls, three-year warranty, should last 15-20 years easily. Sales and service may be an issue if you live in East Overshoe, however. sd

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My top of the line Bosch was about 1000. installed but you can get an upper > range Bosch > for your money. I bought mine from Sears. One of Bosch’s features is that it > is completely quiet. > Another is its energy efficiency. > Kenmore Elite dishwashers clean as well as Bosch but they have a history of > noisiness. Their newer ones > may be quieter since it is such a competitve feature now.

    Which model do you have? Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In my old home I replaced the junky builder’s grade GE dishwasher with a > Kitchenaid unit, which was a great investment. Quiet, good cleaning, etc. > I’ve been in my new home going on 5 years now, & will be looking to >  replace > my current GE builder’s grade junk again sometime soon. > Any recommendations? I would like to stay under $800 installed if >  possible. > TIA > David > My top of the line Bosch was about 1000. installed but you can get an upper > range Bosch > for your money. I bought mine from Sears. One of Bosch’s features is that it > is completely quiet. > Another is its energy efficiency. > Kenmore Elite dishwashers clean as well as Bosch but they have a history of > noisiness. Their newer ones > may be quieter since it is such a competitve feature now.

    Hi, You can see what others are saying about different models….. http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Large_Appliances-All-Dishwashers jeff. http://www.applianceaid.com/ Appliance Repair Aid

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My top of the line Bosch was about 1000. installed but you can get an > upper > range Bosch > for your money. I bought mine from Sears. One of Bosch’s features is that > it > is completely quiet. > Another is its energy efficiency. > Kenmore Elite dishwashers clean as well as Bosch but they have a history > of > noisiness. Their newer ones > may be quieter since it is such a competitve feature now. > Which model do you have? > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line

    I’ve got a new Bosch.  I don’t remember the model number, but it has nothing but a stainless door with a handle.  The controls are on the top of the door.  It’s by far the best dishwasher I’ve ever used.  It’s quiet as anything.  You have to feel it to tell if it’s still running.   Fortunately it has a slight beep when it is finished or you’d have to open it to tell.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My top of the line Bosch was about 1000. installed but you can get an > upper > range Bosch > for your money. I bought mine from Sears. One of Bosch’s features is that > it > is completely quiet. > Another is its energy efficiency. > Kenmore Elite dishwashers clean as well as Bosch but they have a history > of > noisiness. Their newer ones > may be quieter since it is such a competitve feature now. > Which model do you have? > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line

    I have the SHU6802 (the Sears link below may/may not get you there :-) . It is on sale now for 949. It costs a little more than the Integra  (with hidden display) which I passed on because I did not want to have to open the door to see if it was running. They are that quiet. It seems the Integra now comes with three little lights on the front that are probably "in use" indicators, though. The 6800 is a tad quieter than the 9900 series. It also has an economy/quick wash setting that can be used for dishes that aren’t dirty enough for the big guns, saving energy. My guess is that both units clean equally as well and your preference will be with appearance (or maybe that automaticly adjustable upper rack–I’ve never adjusted my upper rack, so don’t know how worthy that feature might be). There is a more thorough comparison at the Bosch link I pasted below. http://www.sears.com/sr/search/results/searchresults.jsp http://www.boschappliances.com/dishwashers/114.asp?checkbox304=1&chec… =1&compare.x=21&compare.y=10

    Response:

    > >> Yep, I can run my Bosch with prayer meetings in the kitchen. (We don’t >> actually have prayer meetings in the kitchen but if we did, I could run the >> dishwasher and no one, except you-know-who, would even know it was >running.) >Who?  The water company? > Sooooo… where DO you hold your prayer meetings, the pantry?

    In the priest-hole, behind the chimney.    Duh…

    Response:

    >> Yep, I can run my Bosch with prayer meetings in the kitchen. (We don’t > actually have prayer meetings in the kitchen but if we did, I could run the > dishwasher and no one, except you-know-who, would even know it was >running.) >Who?  The water company?

    Sooooo… where DO you hold your prayer meetings, the pantry? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

    Response:

    >> Yep, I can run my Bosch with prayer meetings in the kitchen. (We don’t >> actually have prayer meetings in the kitchen but if we did, I could run the >> dishwasher and no one, except you-know-who, would even know it was >running.) >Who?  The water company? > Sooooo… where DO you hold your prayer meetings, the pantry?

    LOL–Actually, now that I think about it, prayer meetings do get pretty loud, don’t they? Bad analogy.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > said… > I have a kitchen aid now and used to have a new Bosch in my old house from a > remodel a year ago. > Nothing is quieter than  a Bosch!   However that said the time delay in the > KA works fine and I don’t here mine in the bedroom which is about 25′ away > from the kitchen! > I’ve never understood the point of using a time delay when they are quiet. > OUr old POS no-name unit that sounded like a tractor needed to be run at > night so you could talk in the kitchen.  Now we run it as soon as it’s > full so we can have clean dishes ASAP.

    Yep, I can run my Bosch with prayer meetings in the kitchen. (We don’t actually have prayer meetings in the kitchen but if we did, I could run the dishwasher and no one, except you-know-who, would even know it was running.)

    Response:

    > Yep, I can run my Bosch with prayer meetings in the kitchen. (We don’t > actually have prayer meetings in the kitchen but if we did, I could run the > dishwasher and no one, except you-know-who, would even know it was running.)

    Who?  The water company?

    Response:

    said… > I have a kitchen aid now and used to have a new Bosch in my old house from a > remodel a year ago. > Nothing is quieter than  a Bosch!   However that said the time delay in the > KA works fine and I don’t here mine in the bedroom which is about 25′ away > from the kitchen!

    I’ve never understood the point of using a time delay when they are quiet.   OUr old POS no-name unit that sounded like a tractor needed to be run at night so you could talk in the kitchen.  Now we run it as soon as it’s full so we can have clean dishes ASAP.

    Response:

    Previously, B. L. Mesmer wrote in alt.home.repair: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Previously, Kpiog wrote in alt.home.repair: > > > Which model do you have? > > > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > > > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line > > …again, just for balance… > > http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews513.html [...] > The only negatives I’ve heard about the Bosch machines, besides being > expensive, are that they do not grind up and dispose of any debris in > the water.  I’m told that they have a filter which must be emptied. I > don’t know whether this is true or not, but it seems strange that this > would be required on such an expensive dishwasher.

    I dunno. I clean our Bosch filter out every 6 months, and it usually doesn’t have anything in it. We scrape food scraps into the trash first anyway – our philosophy is that the right tool should be used for the job, and the dishwasher is not a garbage disposal.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Previously, Kpiog wrote in alt.home.repair: > > > Which model do you have? > > > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > > > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line > > …again, just for balance… > > http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews513.html > Looks to be a UK site, so their machines are probably not built > in the same factory or with the same component sources as the > US machines. > I’ve heard very little bad about Bosch dishwashers in the states, > people on epinions seem to like them a lot, and our experience > with ours is consistent with it being a very high quality > machine. > The only negatives I’ve heard about the Bosch machines, besides being > expensive, are that they do not grind up and dispose of any debris in > the water.  I’m told that they have a filter which must be emptied. I > don’t know whether this is true or not, but it seems strange that this > would be required on such an expensive dishwasher.

    Can’t imagine you heard this from a Bosch owner. The filter on mine is a "self-cleaning triple filter." I check it weekly but it rarely has anything in it and I do not pre-rinse. It is also easy access that turns in and turns out in seconds. It is the disposer that creates so much noise in other dishwashers. My Kenmore had one. Given that, I am happy to spend a few seconds a week checking the filter.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Previously, Kpiog wrote in alt.home.repair: > > > Which model do you have? > > > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > > > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line > > …again, just for balance… > > http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews513.html > Looks to be a UK site, so their machines are probably not built > in the same factory or with the same component sources as the > US machines. > I’ve heard very little bad about Bosch dishwashers in the states, > people on epinions seem to like them a lot, and our experience > with ours is consistent with it being a very high quality > machine. > The only negatives I’ve heard about the Bosch machines, besides being > expensive, are that they do not grind up and dispose of any debris in > the water.  I’m told that they have a filter which must be emptied. I > don’t know whether this is true or not, but it seems strange that this > would be required on such an expensive dishwasher.

    Just took our final look at the TOL Bosch VS. TOL Kitchenaid.  The deciding factor for us was CAPACITY.  The KA baskets are almost 2" longer than the Bosch and the tines(SP??) fold down on top and bottom level for large pots and pans.  Also, the flatware basket is a long narrow basket along the side of the lower level, leaving much more uninterrupted space for plates, bowls, pots, etc.  The Bosch flatware basket is in the middle, cutting off valuable space.  I know I would get frustrated trying to cram a couple of extra ceral bowls into the Bosch – even it is a tad quieter.  Based on the many posts read here and elswhere, I doubt very much the noise level is very significant. The problem with anyone making this determination is that very few people have ever heard BOTH run – just whichever model they own.  And you really can’t compare your old KA to your new Bosch.  A true comparison would be to compare current models of both.  We are going for the KA.

    Response:

    I have a kitchen aid now and used to have a new Bosch in my old house from a remodel a year ago. Nothing is quieter than  a Bosch!   However that said the time delay in the KA works fine and I don’t here mine in the bedroom which is about 25′ away from the kitchen! The KA is much more adjustable and cleans almost as good I believe it is a better value for your  $$$ Wayne

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Previously, Kpiog wrote in alt.home.repair: > > > > Which model do you have? > > > > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > > > > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line > > > …again, just for balance… > > > http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews513.html > > Looks to be a UK site, so their machines are probably not built > > in the same factory or with the same component sources as the > > US machines. > > I’ve heard very little bad about Bosch dishwashers in the states, > > people on epinions seem to like them a lot, and our experience > > with ours is consistent with it being a very high quality > > machine. > The only negatives I’ve heard about the Bosch machines, besides being > expensive, are that they do not grind up and dispose of any debris in > the water.  I’m told that they have a filter which must be emptied. I > don’t know whether this is true or not, but it seems strange that this > would be required on such an expensive dishwasher. > Just took our final look at the TOL Bosch VS. TOL Kitchenaid.  The > deciding factor for us was CAPACITY.  The KA baskets are almost 2" > longer than the Bosch and the tines(SP??) fold down on top and bottom > level for large pots and pans.  Also, the flatware basket is a long > narrow basket along the side of the lower level, leaving much more > uninterrupted space for plates, bowls, pots, etc.  The Bosch flatware > basket is in the middle, cutting off valuable space.  I know I would > get frustrated trying to cram a couple of extra ceral bowls into the > Bosch – even it is a tad quieter.  Based on the many posts read here > and elswhere, I doubt very much the noise level is very significant. > The problem with anyone making this determination is that very few > people have ever heard BOTH run – just whichever model they own.  And > you really can’t compare your old KA to your new Bosch.  A true > comparison would be to compare current models of both.  We are going > for the KA.

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Previously, Kpiog wrote in alt.home.repair: > > > Which model do you have? > > > Bosch 9900 Series Integra Limited Full Sized Dishwasher?? > > > I have been reading lots of good things about the Bosch line > > …again, just for balance… > > http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews513.html > Looks to be a UK site, so their machines are probably not built > in the same factory or with the same component sources as the > US machines. > I’ve heard very little bad about Bosch dishwashers in the states, > people on epinions seem to like them a lot, and our experience > with ours is consistent with it being a very high quality > machine. > The only negatives I’ve heard about the Bosch machines, besides being > expensive, are that they do not grind up and dispose of any debris in > the water.  I’m told that they have a filter which must be emptied. I > don’t know whether this is true or not, but it seems strange that this > would be required on such an expensive dishwasher.

    I prefer the filter on mine because I have a septic system.  The less food and fatty crap going out into the system the better.  There is not that much in the filter after 5 or 6 washes anyway.

    Response:

    >This was called the "Architect Series" and the only thing I could see >different was the top where the controls are is stainless instead of >plastic..

    I have heard that the plastic console panels on KitchenAid and Whirlpool dishwashers experience a lot of breakage problems when wood panel inserts are used on the doors. JFYI Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=KitchenAid+dishwashers =


  • DO I NEED A NEW WATER HEATER??? HELP!!!!

    Question:

     Could be referring to supply lines and the water heater inlet and outlet lines.The one piece anglestop/supply combos and water heater lines are/appear corrugated. In many homes this is all the owner will see making it understandable that some think they have corrugated plumbing

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wot the heck is corrugated pluming? (Maybe some  grooved gutter downspouts?). > Did you perhaps mean galvanized Neil? > Jeff > If the pluming in your house is corrugated instead of copper, it rusts from > the inside out. So every time you open the waterlines to air, the rust > intensifies and builds up in the water heater tank. If this is your problem, > let the hot water flush for a time through a faucet, and leave the water > lines sealed up. I have the same problem. But my water heater lasted 25 > years. > > My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and rinsing > my > > natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! > > The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out > some > > leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back on, I > see > > that my hot water if brown. > > My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city > water, > > but I also have a water softener. > > Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? > > How can I get clear hot water again??? > > Thanks > > BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do > > plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, > > especially when the hardware stores are closed… > —

    Response:

    <snip> > BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do > plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, > especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    What were you thinking? How could you let this happen? There you go, guilty as charged! And always remember, for you, no good job goes unpunished by SWMBO. My first plumbing lesson:  Sunday afternoons are a no-no, precisely for the reasons you stated above… Wednesday evenings on the other hand… with the in-laws over ("What do you mean we can’t flush the toilet?"), maybe. Get a new unit and forget it for six years.  Tell the wife you’ll save money in better energy efficiency, and maybe the gas company will also throw in a rebate. Good Luck, Matt

    Response:

    If the pluming in your house is corrugated instead of copper, it rusts from the inside out. So every time you open the waterlines to air, the rust intensifies and builds up in the water heater tank. If this is your problem, let the hot water flush for a time through a faucet, and leave the water lines sealed up. I have the same problem. But my water heater lasted 25 years.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and rinsing my > natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! > The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out some > leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back on, I see > that my hot water if brown. > My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city water, > but I also have a water softener. > Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? > How can I get clear hot water again??? > Thanks > BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do > plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, > especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    Response:

    Wot the heck is corrugated pluming? (Maybe some  grooved gutter downspouts?). Did you perhaps mean galvanized Neil? Jeff – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > If the pluming in your house is corrugated instead of copper, it rusts from > the inside out. So every time you open the waterlines to air, the rust > intensifies and builds up in the water heater tank. If this is your problem, > let the hot water flush for a time through a faucet, and leave the water > lines sealed up. I have the same problem. But my water heater lasted 25 > years. > My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and rinsing > my > natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! > The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out > some > leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back on, I > see > that my hot water if brown. > My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city > water, > but I also have a water softener. > Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? > How can I get clear hot water again??? > Thanks > BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do > plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, > especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and >rinsing my natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! >The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out >some leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back >on, I see that my hot water if brown. >My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city >water, but I also have a water softener. >Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? >How can I get clear hot water again??? >Thanks >BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do >plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, >especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    Sounds like you got the muck stired up on the bottom of the tank.  Close the inlet valve to the water heater and let it sit for a while.  Then slowly drain the water heater from the drain valve at the bottom of the tank.  Turn the inlet valve on slightly. and keep it draining untill it runs clear. — Just my $0.02 worth.  Hope it helps Gordon Reeder greeder at: myself.com

    Response:

    My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and rinsing my natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out some leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back on, I see that my hot water if brown. My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city water, but I also have a water softener. Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? How can I get clear hot water again??? Thanks BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My hot water is brown brown brown despite draining, flushing, and rinsing my > natural gas water heater for over an hour!!! > The brown water started after I shut off my house’s water to change out some > leaking cartridges on two bathtub faucets.  When I turned it back on, I see > that my hot water if brown. > My 42 gallon natural gas water heater is 11 years old.  I am on city water, > but I also have a water softener. > Is my tank rusting out?  Should I get a new water heater? > How can I get clear hot water again??? > Thanks > BTW:  My wife is fuming (as expected).  I don’t know why I have to do > plumbing work on Sunday afternoon, but it always screws something up, > especially when the hardware stores are closed…

    This is only a guess because I’m not there in person… Average life of a gas heater is 10 years.  Maybe a little more with softened water. The heater is a steel shell with a glass inner liner fused to the steel.  It’s possible that the glass ruptured as the tank shell squeezed in and then out again during the water off/on cycle. That leaves the water in contact with the rusted shell. Anyway, that’s my story and I’m stickin’ with it. <g> Is the water brown when you drain from the bottom of the tank? If so, but the Cold water is clear, I’d say new tank time. Just don’t do laundry till you put a new one in. Tell the wife that the tank has been living on borrowed time for the last year… Jim

    Response:


  • Which appliances should I buy

    Question:

    >f your warranty has not >expired, you might try this route. >Dick

    They threw parts at it until the warranty expired. I ended up making better parts

    Response:

    > Personally, I would like to stay away from G.E., but there are so many > others to choose from.

    There is nothing inherently wrong about GE appliances.  Their dishwashers are among the best. Maybe you had a bad experience.  That could happen with any brand. This topic has been raised here many times before.  Do a Google search on the word "appliance". There is no right answer. For instance, Consumers Reports recently rated washers and dryers. In the course of doing so, they made — as they need to do — numerous assumptions about how the appliances would get used by a typical family.  They also skewed their test results in favor of energy-efficiency.  You’d probably like that. But for me personally, those rankings were nonsensical.  I don’t fit their assumptions.  I don’t put 5000 loads of laundry through my machines every year.  I hang my laundry out to dry whenever I can. My priorities are different than theirs.  I wanted cheap and reliable.  I do care about energy-efficiency, but in my situation, who really gives a shit?  I use less energy washing clothes in the course of a year than Al Gore uses raising campaign money in the course of day.  Or George Bush. There have been people who have posted these sorts of questions here before who are mainly concerned with what their appliances look like.  Will they impress the neighbors? I find no fault with that.  I just think you need to get things worked out better in your mind than you seem to have done so far. Harry

    Response:

    Hi, My idea of any appliance is, the more bells and whisltes, the more troubles to come in the course of using it. My family has been using G.E. mostly over the years and I really did not have bad experience with any one. They all gave good service over the years and I took good care of them also. When I moved into this house(brand new custom built) in ‘94, I got all GE appliances except, Panasonic m/w and Insinkerator. None has given me any trouble yet. Knocking on the wood! Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Personally, I would like to stay away from G.E., but there are so many > others to choose from. > There is nothing inherently wrong about GE appliances.  Their > dishwashers are among the best. > Maybe you had a bad experience.  That could happen with any brand. > This topic has been raised here many times before.  Do a Google > search on the word "appliance". > There is no right answer. > For instance, Consumers Reports recently rated washers and dryers. > In the course of doing so, they made — as they need to do — > numerous assumptions about how the appliances would get used by a > typical family.  They also skewed their test results in favor of > energy-efficiency.  You’d probably like that. > But for me personally, those rankings were nonsensical.  I don’t fit > their assumptions.  I don’t put 5000 loads of laundry through my > machines every year.  I hang my laundry out to dry whenever I can. > My priorities are different than theirs.  I wanted cheap and > reliable.  I do care about energy-efficiency, but in my situation, > who really gives a shit?  I use less energy washing clothes in the > course of a year than Al Gore uses raising campaign money in the > course of day.  Or George Bush. > There have been people who have posted these sorts of questions here > before who are mainly concerned with what their appliances look > like.  Will they impress the neighbors? > I find no fault with that.  I just think you need to get things > worked out better in your mind than you seem to have done so far. > Harry

    Response:

    >> Personally, I would like to stay away from G.E., but there are so many > others to choose from. > There is nothing inherently wrong about GE appliances.  Their > dishwashers are among the best.

    Huhn. These are the dishwashers that could catch on fire because of a bad switch, and their response was "The dishwasher is more than five years old so you’ll have to replace the dishwasher" until a class action lawsuit forced them to issue a "fix" (which was to disable the heated dry action altogether by disabling said switch)? > Maybe you had a bad experience.  That could happen with any brand.

    I personally have not. Many people did. As in, had their house burned down. > There have been people who have posted these sorts of questions here > before who are mainly concerned with what their appliances look > like.  Will they impress the neighbors? > I find no fault with that.  I just think you need to get things > worked out better in your mind than you seem to have done so far.

    True enough. For example, if energy use is your deal, if you want a washing machine, go to the EPA site and look for the one with the lowest energy use that’s big enough for your washloads. Same thing with refrigerators. That’ll get you past the junk on the market for the most part, and get you energy efficiency (assuming that’s your goal). On the other hand, if this is to be a rental unit, go to Sams Club and buy the cheapest GE crap that they have on the floor. The tenants will just trash it anyhow (not to mention the tenants that boldly load said refrigerator and dishwasher onto their truck when they move out and disappear!), so no use buying quality in that case. — There is no distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.                                               – Mark Twain

    Response:

    > Moreover, some companies, particularly GE, have a > horrendous record in standing behind their products, especially for defects > that show up after a few years.  For several years GE had refrigerators with > compressors that failed prematurely.  They would not replace ones that that > failed one day past the warranty even though it was a generic problem.  They > refused to fix a safety problem on a dishwasher heat dry switch (it could > burst into flame) until they had to settle a class action suit.  Even then > they would not replace the switch, but simply removed it from the circuit > along with its function.  Their attitude was if the dishwasher was more than > five years old, it had outlived its useful life and you should toss it if > you had a safety problem (even if it was their fault).

    This is the same GE that somehow managed to make their lower-end dishwashers (the ones that _didn’t_ burst into flames) disposable by selling only the combined pump and motor so that a failed pump on a three-year-old low-line dishwasher ended up costing $250 for parts.  GE has never struck me as a company that really cared about making a high-quality appliance. If one did a Google search that covered appliance quality, one probably would avoid GE (and its brethren, Hotpoint and Monogram) just based on the number of negative comments in the query results. Feh.

    Response:

    >>While true enough, I’ll just point out that for energy efficiency and >water conservation, you’ll need a front-loader washer — which is NOT >cheap at the moment. >So the maxim of "buy the cheapest" applies only under a certain set of >circumstances — i.e., you don’t care about energy use… > The Frigidaire front load washer is less expensive than many regular, ‘top of > the line’ top load models and is cheaper than any other brand of front load > washer I know of by $300 or more. It is also EnergyStar qualified.

    Yes, it’s a good washer. I intend to buy one shortly. It sells for $700 in Kenmore trim. You can get a bottom-of-the-line GE washer for well under $300 at Sams Club or some other outfit of that nature (I think the last time I checked it was $250 at Sams Club). $700 is high end for a top loader, and bottom of the line for a front loader. — There is no distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.                                               – Mark Twain

    Response:

    > "T" ruminated: > Just remember that the more bells and whistles and electronics that > you buy, the more things can go wrong, and the more expensive it will > be to repair.  Nobody will ever know how much you spent on your washer > and dryer.  You don’t have to get the most expensive to get clean > clothes. >While true enough, I’ll just point out that for energy efficiency and >water conservation, you’ll need a front-loader washer — which is NOT >cheap at the moment. >So the maxim of "buy the cheapest" applies only under a certain set of >circumstances — i.e., you don’t care about energy use…

    The Frigidaire front load washer is less expensive than many regular, ‘top of the line’ top load models and is cheaper than any other brand of front load washer I know of by $300 or more. It is also EnergyStar qualified. The Frigidaire built front loaders are also sold under the GE, Kenmore, Gibson, White Westinghouse and Tappan brand names. Its design has also been on the market for quite a while and has a reasonable repair record (ie. not too many serious or frequent problems). Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Frigidaire+washers =


  • Gas Dryer..Will It Change My Life?

    Question:

    > unless the house is new(air tight) i don’t think lack of fresh air would be a

    issue.< That was their argument, that moble homes are tighter than a normal house. I have never had a personal experience on the user end a gas dryer but have also been told the gas dryers  tend to  yellow clothing more so than electric. RM~ PS, On the funny side (the cat didn’t think so): I once saw a combination washer/gas dryer that was brought in for service, it seems that the kid washed and dried the cat. It was a terrible mess.

    Response:

    > My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to > upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to > upgrade > to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost > five thousand dollars. >   One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical > savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place > up. >   Comments? > Tom in Chicago

    The fellow is right. The big loads in most homes are the dryer, stove, oven, water heater, space heating, air conditioning, and hot tub and pool heating. All but the air conditioning can be done with either gas or electric. If no more than one of these is electric in your house, it is unlikely you will exceed the capacity of a 100a service. The thing to do is to have a local electrician do the calculations found in NEC article 230 to determine for certain whether or not the existing service will be adequate for your proposed configuration. (You can do this yourself, but it isn’t simple.) In this area (Middle California) gas energy is much less costly than electric energy (Why?), and has been so for many years. Many homeowners replace electric major appliances with gas for just this reason. I believe you will find no significant difference in safety or reliability between the two energy sources if the electric or gas connections are professionally installed and normal maintenance (like cleaning the lint filter each load, for example) is done. — Best regards, Anthony Straight proprietor, Tony Electric http://dotznize.com/electric/ [This free advice carries no warranty whatsoever. Use it or ignore it at your own discretion and risk.]

    Response:

    > I am retired (27 years) from a company that sold many (many, many) appliances. > I don’t have specifics but will make a wild guess that they sold 25 – 30 > electric dryers to one gas dryer. > At one time the company would not install (they wouldn’t even set it inside > uninstalled) a gas dryer in a mobile home, I don’t know if this was because of > a law or that the company didn’t want the liability. I was told that the reason > was that a gas dryer would burn too much oxygen out of the air. > I personally wouldn’t have one in my home..

    Homes that are very tightly constructed have fresh air intakes or make-up air vents to areas with gas furnaces.  I have my gas drying in the basement very near the furnace.  I don’t worry about being asphyxiated by the dryer. I would be interested in knowing how much oxygen is consumed by a dryer in relationship to the available oxygen in the home’s atmosphere.  It would be my guess that even in a tight house this wouldn’t be an issue, but it would be interesting to hear from someone who knows.

    Response:

    Leaviing the efficiency aside, I understand that gas dryers may yellow whites.  I am however referring to propane dryers and not natural gas. I am not certain but it has always been my understanding.  Perhaps someone else could comment.

    Response:

    >Actually the energy efficiency of the gas dryer is not greater than an >electric dryer (which is almost 100% efficient) but natural gas dryers >can dry three loads with the same amount of energy it takes with >electricity.  

    The first part of your statement is right, but I don’t see where the second part came from. Neither 12 nor 3 is a plausible number for overall efficiency. Gas vs electricity dryer energy usage should be virtually *identical* (because heat == energy == heat), with electricity doing slightly better (because gas has to waste a little heat up the chimney.) And according to the government, they are indeed almost identical: dryer standards at www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo/refbriefs/ee8.html list a standard electric dryer at 3.01 lbs of clothes per kwh, and a standard gas dryer at 2.67 lbs of clothes per kwh (equiv). Were you thinking of the relative dollar cost of gas vs electricity, rather than the energy cost? Garry

    Response:

    Looks like Tom has discovered the cure to the enrgy crisis.  Anytime you can get 12 times the output as what you put in – this is simply a miracle. Actually the energy efficiency of the gas dryer is not greater than an electric dryer (which is almost 100% efficient) but natural gas dryers can dry three loads with the same amount of energy it takes with electricity.  Therefore, the gas dryers use 1/3 of the energy to dry a load of clothes as compared to the electric dryer. Darren – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > if my notes from school are correct it goes: 1$ into electric you get1$ out. > gas is 1$to 12$ .  basically gas is way more efficient.

    Response:

    > The big loads in most homes are the dryer, stove, oven, > water heater, space heating, air conditioning, and hot tub and pool > heating.

    I’ve read that 6-10% of residential electrical use is for dryers. I was putting a load in the dryer a few weeks ago. It was really hot and I didn’t relish the thought of adding even more heat to the house. So I had the brilliant idea of stretching a line across the yard and hanging up the laundry out there. I felt like I was cheating the heat. :) I’ve been line-drying ever since, and there are definite advantages (don’t have to sort the laundry by bulk, don’t have to wait for dryer to finish to dry more, etc.) So anyway, in some localities and/or at some times of year, there’s a third alternative to electric vs. gas dryers. :)

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The big loads in most homes are the dryer, stove, oven, > water heater, space heating, air conditioning, and hot tub and pool > heating. >I’ve read that 6-10% of residential electrical use is for dryers. >I was putting a load in the dryer a few weeks ago. It was really hot and I >didn’t relish the thought of adding even more heat to the house. So I had >the brilliant idea of stretching a line across the yard and hanging up the >laundry out there. I felt like I was cheating the heat. :) I’ve been >line-drying ever since, and there are definite advantages (don’t have to >sort the laundry by bulk, don’t have to wait for dryer to finish to dry >more, etc.) >So anyway, in some localities and/or at some times of year, there’s a third >alternative to electric vs. gas dryers. :)

    I’ve been using that Big Dryer in the Sky for [censored] years. Clothes smell wonderful after drying in the fresh air. In our (chuckle) "rainy season", (So. Calif) I just drape stuff around the house.  (That might not work for a large household with  babies, diapers, kid clothes, etc.) — Polar

    Response:

    Believe it or not, you can get a gas Air Conditioner…  My uncle worked for the local Gas Co. and had one.  It was quite a bit larger than an electric model, but was efficient. On the topic of oxygen consumption of gas appliances – that’s not the real risk here folks.  It’s the Carbon Monoxide level produced.  A simple solution for everyone, gas appliances or not, is a $30 detector.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to > upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to > upgrade > to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost > five thousand dollars. >   One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical > savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place > up. >   Comments? > Tom in Chicago > The fellow is right. The big loads in most homes are the dryer, stove, oven, > water heater, space heating, air conditioning, and hot tub and pool > heating. All but the air conditioning can be done with either gas or > electric. If no more than one of these is electric in your house, it is > unlikely you will exceed the capacity of a 100a service. > The thing to do is to have a local electrician do the calculations found in > NEC article 230 to determine for certain whether or not the existing > service will be adequate for your proposed configuration. (You can do this > yourself, but it isn’t simple.) > In this area (Middle California) gas energy is much less costly than > electric energy (Why?), and has been so for many years. Many homeowners > replace electric major appliances with gas for just this reason. I believe > you will find no significant difference in safety or reliability between > the two energy sources if the electric or gas connections are > professionally installed and normal maintenance (like cleaning the lint > filter each load, for example) is done. > — > Best regards, > Anthony Straight > proprietor, Tony Electric > http://dotznize.com/electric/ > [This free advice carries no warranty whatsoever. Use it or ignore it at > your own discretion and risk.]

    Response:

    if my notes from school are correct it goes: 1$ into electric you get1$ out. gas is 1$to 12$ .  basically gas is way more efficient. unless the house is new(air tight) i don’t think lack of fresh air would be a issue.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am retired (27 years) from a company that sold many (many, many) appliances. > I don’t have specifics but will make a wild guess that they sold 25 – 30 > electric dryers to one gas dryer. > At one time the company would not install (they wouldn’t even set it inside > uninstalled) a gas dryer in a mobile home, I don’t know if this was because of > a law or that the company didn’t want the liability. I was told that the reason > was that a gas dryer would burn too much oxygen out of the air. > I personally wouldn’t have one in my home.. > Rob Mills ~~~

    Response:

    I am retired (27 years) from a company that sold many (many, many) appliances. I don’t have specifics but will make a wild guess that they sold 25 – 30 electric dryers to one gas dryer. At one time the company would not install (they wouldn’t even set it inside uninstalled) a gas dryer in a mobile home, I don’t know if this was because of a law or that the company didn’t want the liability. I was told that the reason was that a gas dryer would burn too much oxygen out of the air. I personally wouldn’t have one in my home.. Rob Mills ~~~

    Response:

    Hi, If you have any respiratory health concern, learn all about gas appliance before using them. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to >upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to upgrade >to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost >five thousand dollars. >  One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical >savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place up. >  Comments? >Tom in Chicago > Definitely, you will reduce your operating costs with a gas dryer. And you > might not need to upgrade to 200A if you get rid of the electric dryer. Same > comments apply to gas vs. electric water heaters. > If you also have an electric stove, consider replacing it with a gas stove > also. This will further lower your electric load, and reduce operating costs. > But there is another factor that you must consider here: gas and electric > stoves have *very* different cooking characteristics. Make sure to clear it > with your missus before changing the stove!

    Response:

    >My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to >upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to upgrade >to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost >five thousand dollars. >  One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical >savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place up. >  Comments? >Tom in Chicago

    Definitely, you will reduce your operating costs with a gas dryer. And you might not need to upgrade to 200A if you get rid of the electric dryer. Same comments apply to gas vs. electric water heaters. If you also have an electric stove, consider replacing it with a gas stove also. This will further lower your electric load, and reduce operating costs. But there is another factor that you must consider here: gas and electric stoves have *very* different cooking characteristics. Make sure to clear it with your missus before changing the stove!

    Response:

    >My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to >upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to upgrade >to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost >five thousand dollars. >  One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical >savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place up. >  Comments? >Tom in Chicago

    If you can go the gas route, all the better.  The hookup can be a bit more involved than electric, but once it’s done you’ll save on electric, have less static in the clothes, and faster drying time.  If there is 220v already in the laundry area, just leave it be.  It’s less expensive to use gas, but who knows about tomorrow.  Consider a gas stove/oven too, but make sure you got a vent to the outside, not the kind that blow back into your face.    Gas heated water is better than electric too.

    Response:

    > My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to > upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to upgrade > to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost > five thousand dollars. >   One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical > savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place up. >   Comments? > Tom in Chicago

    I have an electric and a gas dryer.  The gas dryer is, hands down, the better appliance.  Because I moved from an area with gas to an area without gas, I ended up buying an identical electric dryer to the gas model that I had and gave the gas dryer to a relative.  The electric dryer poor in comparison.  When I moved again I got another gas dry and kept the electric one.  I thought that I would use both, but the truth is that the electric drying gets used about twice a year when I am really pressed for time and have to wash a number of successive large loads of towels or other heavy clothes.  The gas drying generally dries faster than the matching washer can wash.  Don’t look at the gas dryer as a way to save money.  Look at it like an improvement that will do a better job and cost less to operate.

    Response:

    My wife wants to "Do Her Kitchen."  I have been told you often have to upgrade your electrical to deal with this.  We have 100 amps and to upgrade to 200 amps we have to pay to have the village dig a trench.  It will cost five thousand dollars.   One fellow suggested buying a gas dryer.  He said that the electrical savings would allow us to upgrade the kitchen without blowing the place up.   Comments? Tom in Chicago

    Response: