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> In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than 38 degrees > F. SO… when the air coming into the evaporator reaches this low > temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF if the air temperature > entering the evaporator continues to drop. Otherwise the evaporator would > become a block of ice, which would prevent any air from reaching the heater > core (in nearly all cases).
Now THIS makes perfect sense. (I’d have to look up the temp at which refrigerants go liquid to confirm or deny Steve G’s belief.) I’m almost certain that the A/C on my old 85 Pontiac would cycle at any temp, though. I’ll check up with the Honda soon. Anyway, I doubt it would be that difficult (in the original design) to construct an airflow system that would shunt warmer air around the evap unit when the temp dropped in winter, in order to preserve the dehumidifying characteristics of an A/C-based system.
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> BTW, while there are products out there that are sold specifically to > curtail condensation, a bottle of windex and some newspaper works very > well.
Just Newspaper on it’s own does a fair job, without smears if the windows are only a little grubby on the inside too. And you can dry a slightly damp window with Newspaper and clean it at the same time. One tip, alcohol based de-icers for the outside of glass can actually cause misting on the inside because they change temperature so quickly the condensation forms from moisture in the car. You’ll get less condensation if the glass is scraped without de-icer (unless it is so hard you can’t shift it). — "Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot. http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
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> new model top loading washing machine in the US today. ;)
they still sell top loaders
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> There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of the > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh). 
Hah hah. I can’t see anything but destruction in my future from doing that… either the system overheats cuz there aren’t enough holes, or there are too many holes to keep it warm. I could blow a few units trying to get it right! I can live with it.
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Has nothing to do with the refrigerant. Has solely to do with the temperature water freezes at … 32 degrees. Since in most cases, all air flows thru the evaporator and then to or past the heater core, were the water on the evaporator be allowed to freeze solid, no air would flow out of any of the plenum chamber outlets. — – Philip
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The low temp cutout may have different settings, but that is most > likely a result of the diferent refrigerants used, r12 vs 134a, > Your 83 may still run at 40, but there is a temp close to that > where it will no longer engage. They all had low temp cutouts for > the very reason I mentioned. Or, the low temp cutout may have been > by-passed or is not working properly. Take it out on a cold frosty > morning and run the ac and let us know what happens. > I’m a mechanic by trade (inter-provincially licensed) and worked in > the field in the 70’s and 80’s and never saw a compressor cycle in > temp below 35 to 40 F. Up here in the frozen north of Canada we > use our defrost a lot and they would engage the compressor in the > mild weather, but have never seen a compressor run in the cold. > Not sure what it has to do with buying a 3 gal toilet tho… > You certainly are entitle to your own opinion. The AC on my 83 > Continental will run below 40 degrees but not my 2005 Lincoln LS > or my 2003 Mustang GT. Go try a buy a three gallon toilet or a > new model top loading washing machine in the US today. ;) > mike hunt >> No it’s not! >> AC systems have always had low temp cutouts on them, and it’s not >> idiocy for the above poster. The ac is called for anytime the >> defrost is selected on most cars but is prevented from cutting in >> below 40 F because below that temp the gaseous refrigerant will >> liquefy and as we all know you can not compress a liquid. It >> cuts it out so that your compressor doesn’t smash to little bits >> trying to compress liquid refrigerant. >> Short lesson in refrigeration, compressor draws in low pressure >> gas, pumps out high pressure gas. High pressure gas condenses >> into a liquid under pressure in… what else but the condenser >> (that other rad in the front of your car). High pressure liquid >> is metered/sprayed into the evaporator where it becomes a low >> pressure gas again and so on. >> For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations >> sometimes have water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a >> Supra that leaked water > at >> the hatch. Windows seemed to fog easily. Discovered one day >> that the spare tire well was half full of water. >> Steve >>> The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 >>> degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same >>> as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing >>> machines sold in the US. Your government at work. 
>>> mike hunt >>>>>> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the >>>>>> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. >>>>> I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my >>>>> old Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster >>>>> setting–switch the system to defrost, and the A/C was >>>>> activated. >>>> It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if >>>> you turn the inside temp past 75%. >>>>> Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the >>>>> seals lubricated, in addition to removing condensation. Worked >>>>> at any temp, as I recall, and I move around NY/New England. >>>> It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. >>>>> I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has >>>>> now gotten cold enough around here to check. Disabling it >>>>> below 40 degrees would be idiocy–it’s the only way to remove >>>>> condensation effectively. >>>> I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the >>>> control to and not the outside temp. >>>>> It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when >>>>> the outside temp is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. >>>> There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside >>>> of the A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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Where did *you* read that it’s a Federal Regulation about cutting A/C at 40 degrees? And don’t give me that "go look it up BS." — – Philip
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 > degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same > as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing > machines sold in the US. Your government at work. > mike hunt >>> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the >>> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. >> I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old >> Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster >> setting–switch the >> system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. > It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if you > turn the inside temp past 75%. >> Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the >> seals lubricated, in addition to removing condensation. Worked at >> any temp, as I recall, and I move >> around NY/New England. > It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. >> I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now >> gotten >> cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees >> would be >> idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. > I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the > control to and not the outside temp. >> It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the >> outside temp >> is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. > There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of > the > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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About a year ago, I did have to replace one of our toilets. Bought a new Kohler. They play all sorts of timing, level, and displacement tricks to limit the flush volume to 1.6 gallons. But after you "change things" and since the tank size permits more water storage, the flush can easily be increased to just under 3 gallons. Want a used 5 gallon flusher? LOL And you are COMPLETELY in error about buying a top loader washing machine. They dominate by wide margin. Front loaders are the in the small minority of units sold. — – Philip
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You certainly are entitle to your own opinion. The AC on my 83 > Continental will run below 40 degrees but not my 2005 Lincoln LS > or my 2003 Mustang GT. Go try a buy a three gallon toilet or a > new model top loading washing machine in the US today. ;) > mike hunt > No it’s not! > AC systems have always had low temp cutouts on them, and it’s not > idiocy for the above poster. The ac is called for anytime the > defrost is selected on most cars but is prevented from cutting in > below 40 F because below that temp the gaseous refrigerant will > liquefy and as we all know you can not compress a liquid. It cuts > it out so that your compressor doesn’t smash to little bits trying > to compress liquid refrigerant. > Short lesson in refrigeration, compressor draws in low pressure > gas, pumps out high pressure gas. High pressure gas condenses > into a liquid under pressure in… what else but the condenser > (that other rad in the front of your car). High pressure liquid > is metered/sprayed into the evaporator where it becomes a low > pressure gas again and so on. > For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations > sometimes have water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a > Supra that leaked water at the hatch. Windows seemed to fog > easily. Discovered one day that the spare tire well was half full > of water. > Steve >> The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 >> degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same >> as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing >> machines sold in the US. Your government at work. >> mike hunt >>>>> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the >>>>> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. >>>> I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my >>>> old Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster >>>> setting–switch the system to defrost, and the A/C was >>>> activated. >>> It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if >>> you turn the inside temp past 75%. >>>> Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the >>>> seals lubricated, in addition to removing condensation. Worked >>>> at any temp, as I recall, and I move around NY/New England. >>> It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. >>>> I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has >>>> now gotten cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below >>>> 40 degrees would be idiocy–it’s the only way to remove >>>> condensation effectively. >>> I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the >>> control to and not the outside temp. >>>> It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when >>>> the outside temp is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. >>> There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of >>> the A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the > temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. > I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems.
It does apply to automotive A/C. >On my old > Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch > the system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. Good way to keep > the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals lubricated, in > addition to removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, > and I move around NY/New England. > I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now > gotten cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 > degrees would be idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation > effectively. It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t > function when the outside temp is "too low"–which occasionally > annoys me.
In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than 38 degrees F. SO… when the air coming into the evaporator reaches this low temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF if the air temperature entering the evaporator continues to drop. Otherwise the evaporator would become a block of ice, which would prevent any air from reaching the heater core (in nearly all cases). — – Philip
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> For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations sometimes have > water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a Supra that leaked water at > the hatch. Windows seemed to fog easily. Discovered one day that the > spare > tire well was half full of water. > Steve
Thanks. We had that very issue with this car (89 Toyota Corolla). The spare tire well filled with water shortly after we bought the car. It [water] was coming in from the rear lights which were newly installed (without sealant). Fixed that problem. No AC in this car. So, unfortunately, with where we live (Northwest Oregon) and the amount of rain we get and how cold it is here until, like, next August — LOL — we’ll just have to deal with it. Floormats are a must in this wet area. SO they’re stayin’. I will try Anti-Fog wipes. Will see how those work out. Rainex works great in this area. I know that much. But that’s the outside. And the wipers work fine getting that "condenstation" off the windows. Aaron
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The low temp cutout may have different settings, but that is most likely a result of the diferent refrigerants used, r12 vs 134a, Your 83 may still run at 40, but there is a temp close to that where it will no longer engage. They all had low temp cutouts for the very reason I mentioned. Or, the low temp cutout may have been by-passed or is not working properly. Take it out on a cold frosty morning and run the ac and let us know what happens. I’m a mechanic by trade (inter-provincially licensed) and worked in the field in the 70’s and 80’s and never saw a compressor cycle in temp below 35 to 40 F. Up here in the frozen north of Canada we use our defrost a lot and they would engage the compressor in the mild weather, but have never seen a compressor run in the cold. Not sure what it has to do with buying a 3 gal toilet tho…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You certainly are entitle to your own opinion. The AC on my 83 > Continental will run below 40 degrees but not my 2005 Lincoln LS > or my 2003 Mustang GT. Go try a buy a three gallon toilet or a > new model top loading washing machine in the US today. ;) > mike hunt > No it’s not! > AC systems have always had low temp cutouts on them, and it’s not idiocy for > the above poster. The ac is called for anytime the defrost is selected on > most cars but is prevented from cutting in below 40 F because below that > temp the gaseous refrigerant will liquefy and as we all know you can not > compress a liquid. It cuts it out so that your compressor doesn’t smash to > little bits trying to compress liquid refrigerant. > Short lesson in refrigeration, compressor draws in low pressure gas, pumps > out high pressure gas. High pressure gas condenses into a liquid under > pressure in… what else but the condenser (that other rad in the front of > your car). High pressure liquid is metered/sprayed into the evaporator > where it becomes a low pressure gas again and so on. > For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations sometimes have > water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a Supra that leaked water at > the hatch. Windows seemed to fog easily. Discovered one day that the spare > tire well was half full of water. > Steve > > The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 > > degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same > > as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing > > machines sold in the US. Your government at work. > > mike hunt > > > >> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the > > > >> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. > > > >I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old > > > >Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch the > > > >system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. > > > It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if you > > > turn the inside temp past 75%. > > > >Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals > lubricated, in addition to > > > >removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, and I move > > > >around NY/New England. > > > It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. > > > >I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now > gotten > > > >cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees would > be > > > >idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. > > > I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the > > > control to and not the outside temp. > > > >It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the > outside temp > > > >is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. > > > There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of the > > > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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You certainly are entitle to your own opinion. The AC on my 83 Continental will run below 40 degrees but not my 2005 Lincoln LS or my 2003 Mustang GT. Go try a buy a three gallon toilet or a new model top loading washing machine in the US today. ;) mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > No it’s not! > AC systems have always had low temp cutouts on them, and it’s not idiocy for > the above poster. The ac is called for anytime the defrost is selected on > most cars but is prevented from cutting in below 40 F because below that > temp the gaseous refrigerant will liquefy and as we all know you can not > compress a liquid. It cuts it out so that your compressor doesn’t smash to > little bits trying to compress liquid refrigerant. > Short lesson in refrigeration, compressor draws in low pressure gas, pumps > out high pressure gas. High pressure gas condenses into a liquid under > pressure in… what else but the condenser (that other rad in the front of > your car). High pressure liquid is metered/sprayed into the evaporator > where it becomes a low pressure gas again and so on. > For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations sometimes have > water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a Supra that leaked water at > the hatch. Windows seemed to fog easily. Discovered one day that the spare > tire well was half full of water. > Steve > The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 > degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same > as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing > machines sold in the US. Your government at work. > mike hunt > > >> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the > > >> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. > > >I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old > > >Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch the > > >system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. > > It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if you > > turn the inside temp past 75%. > > >Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals > lubricated, in addition to > > >removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, and I move > > >around NY/New England. > > It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. > > >I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now > gotten > > >cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees would > be > > >idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. > > I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the > > control to and not the outside temp. > > >It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the > outside temp > > >is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. > > There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of the > > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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If your vehicle is equipped with a manual ‘recirc mode’ and you are operating your heating system in the ‘recirc mode,’ that’s likely your problem. If not, check for a heater core leak mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it? > What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the > defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the best way to > check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :)
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> Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it? > What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the > defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the best way to > check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :)
Sealing up your car will only make things worse – unless of course you don’t have the need to breath. The moisture in your will condense on the windows. How cold is you climate? Running the A/C while heating will remove a lot of moisture. Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid using the recirculate setting. This just allows moisture to build up in the car. Regards, Ed White
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The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing machines sold in the US. Your government at work. mike hunt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the >> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. >I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old >Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch the >system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. > It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if you > turn the inside temp past 75%. >Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals lubricated, in addition to >removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, and I move >around NY/New England. > It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. >I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now gotten >cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees would be >idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. > I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the > control to and not the outside temp. >It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the outside temp >is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. > There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of the > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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No it’s not! AC systems have always had low temp cutouts on them, and it’s not idiocy for the above poster. The ac is called for anytime the defrost is selected on most cars but is prevented from cutting in below 40 F because below that temp the gaseous refrigerant will liquefy and as we all know you can not compress a liquid. It cuts it out so that your compressor doesn’t smash to little bits trying to compress liquid refrigerant. Short lesson in refrigeration, compressor draws in low pressure gas, pumps out high pressure gas. High pressure gas condenses into a liquid under pressure in… what else but the condenser (that other rad in the front of your car). High pressure liquid is metered/sprayed into the evaporator where it becomes a low pressure gas again and so on. For the OP, cars with persistant high humidity situations sometimes have water leaks that may not be apparent. I had a Supra that leaked water at the hatch. Windows seemed to fog easily. Discovered one day that the spare tire well was half full of water. Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The deactivation on newer domestic and automotive AC’s, at 40 > degrees, is a federal regulation intended to save energy. Same > as the limit on water capacity for toilets and the latest washing > machines sold in the US. Your government at work. > mike hunt > >> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the > >> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. > >I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old > >Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch the > >system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. > It depends on the make/model. My cressida shuts the A/C off if you > turn the inside temp past 75%. > >Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals
lubricated, in addition to – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, and I move > >around NY/New England. > It does help with condensation. There’s no doubt about that. > >I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now gotten > >cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees would be > >idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. > I’m pretty sure that even in his case, it’s the temp you set the > control to and not the outside temp. > >It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the outside temp > >is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me. > There’s a way to fix that, put a plastic bag over the outside of the > A/C after poking several holes in it. (The bag, duh).
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Wet shoes and floor mats aggravate the situation too. bob
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> Wet shoes and floor mats aggravate the situation too. bob
So do lengthy discussions on the merits of Toyota vs. Honda vs. Isuzu Vs. Chrysler Vs. Ford and who shouldda wouldda won the last election — Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
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> Wet shoes and floor mats aggravate the situation too. bob
I always forget that part. The heater gets going and evaporates the water from around our shoes and mats, then the moist air hits the not-yet-heated windows. Mike
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what about leather seats…does that add to the condensation?I have leather and this is my first winter with the car.I find it gets a little humid in there also
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wet shoes and floor mats aggravate the situation too. bob > I always forget that part. The heater gets going and evaporates the water > from around our shoes and mats, then the moist air hits the not-yet-heated > windows. > Mike
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it? >>What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the >>defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the best way >>to >>check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :) >Best way to deal with inside condensation is to use the A/C. >Best way to *avoid* it is to *clean* the inside glass surfaces. >. > Yep. That, and tell your passengers to stop breathing. > BTW, while there are products out there that are sold specifically to > curtail condensation, a bottle of windex and some newspaper works very > well.
Ah, yes. When in doubt, use the simplets option. :) Thanks. And thanks to all who have posted. I really appreciate it. Aaron
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> Unfortunately most A/C systems don’t run once the > temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
I don’t believe this holds true for automotive systems. On my old Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting–switch the system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. Good way to keep the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals lubricated, in addition to removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall, and I move around NY/New England. I’ll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now gotten cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40 degrees would be idiocy–it’s the only way to remove condensation effectively. It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don’t function when the outside temp is "too low"–which occasionally annoys me.
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Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it? What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the best way to check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :)
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I run my AC briefly to get rid of it. Not sure if sealing your car would help, if that were possible. Remember that condensation is due to the humidity in the air and your car would still contain air, even if sealed. Remco
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>Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it? >What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the >defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the best way to >check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :)
Best way to deal with inside condensation is to use the A/C. Best way to *avoid* it is to *clean* the inside glass surfaces. .
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> Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid > of it? What’s the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove > with the defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What’s the > best way to check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help! :)
As others have and will state, the A/C must be run with the defroster (your A/C -is- operational, isn’t it?). Also, that YOU are in the car …. BREATHING … contributes significantly to condensation on your windows. If you get into the car with WET wearing wet clothing, this too contributes to window condensation. — – Philip
