Today's Articles

  • George W. Bush Resume:

    Question:

    Sorry fellaz! This arrived in my inbox today and I had to share with y’all! Mind you, if I were an american, I wouldn’t vote for Kerry either. ;-) D.R. George W. Bush Resume: Past work experience: * Ran for congress and lost. * Produced a Hollywood slasher B movie. * Bought an oil company, but couldn’t find any oil in Texas, company went bankrupt shortly after he sold all his stock. * Bought the Texas Rangers baseball team in a sweetheart deal that took land using tax-payer money. Biggest move: Traded Sammy Sosa to Chicago. * With fathers help (and his name) was elected Governor of Texas. Accomplishments: * Changed pollution laws for power and oil companies and made Texas the most polluted state in America. * Replaced Los Angeles with Houston as the most smog-ridden city in the U.S. * Cut taxes and bankrupted the Texas government to the tune of billions in borrowed money. * Set record for most executions by any Governor in American history. Accomplishments as president: * First president in US history to enter office with a criminal record. * In his first two years in office over 2 million Americans lost their jobs. * Members of Bush cabinet are the richest administration in history. (the ‘poorest’ multi-millionaire, Condoleeza Rice has a Chevron oil tanker named after her). * Spent the surplus and bankrupted the treasury. * Shattered record for biggest annual deficit in history. * Set economic record for most private bankruptcies filed in any 12 month period. * Set all-time record for biggest drop in the history of the stock market. * First year in office set the all-time record for most days on vacation by any president in US history. * After taking the entire month of August off for vacation, presided over the worst security failure in US history. * Cut unemployment benefits for more out of work Americans than any president in US history. * Set the all-time record for most foreclosures in a 12 month period. * Appointed more convicted criminals to administration positions than any president in US history. * Signed more laws and executive orders amending the Constitution than any president in US history. * Cut healthcare benefits for war veterans. * Dissolved more international treaties than any president in US history. * Presided over the biggest corporate stock market fraud of any market in any country in the history of the world. * Set the all-time record for biggest annual budget spending increases, more than any president in US history.


  • pex tubing

    Question:

    Hi:      Has anyone tried using pex tubing in a solar collector? it would be cheaper and easier to work with than copper…

    Response:

    > Hi: >      Has anyone tried using pex tubing in a solar collector? it would be > cheaper and easier to work with than copper…

    Hi, It seems to me that the set of installation instructions I read for pex for under floor heating said not to leave it exposed to the sun for more than 30 days — that might be bad for a solar collector :-) But, may not be true for all formulations? Some of the radiant floor heating suppliers also sell Aluminum heat distribution "tracks" or fins that the pex tubing snaps into.  The fins spread the heat out when the radiant floor tubing is installed under a plywood sub floor.  This might work to pick up heat in a collector if painted black. The temperature inside a glazed collector at stagnation is probably to high for pex unless some steps are taken to protect it. — I have wondered about using 3/4 or  1 inch pex for the line from the collector to the storage tank.  Seems like it would be a lot easier than copper.  Its good for 200F at 80 psi. This is from the Wirsbo.com site — a pex supplier: hePEX


  • How to unclog solar panel?

    Question:

    I have a 2 panel hot water heater.  Each panel is 4×12 ft.  One of the panels has a clog of some sort.  I have tried hooking it up to a garden hose and forcing water through it – no good.  Does anybody know how to solve this problem?

    Response:

    > I have a 2 panel hot water heater.  Each panel is 4×12 ft.  One of the > panels has a clog of some sort.  I have tried hooking it up to a garden hose > and forcing water through it – no good.  Does anybody know how to solve this > problem?

    If the clog is from hard water deposits, you might try running a vinegar solution through the it to dissolve the clog.  The folks who install/maintain these systems have a stronger acid solution that can be used if the vinegar does not work. If its not a hard water deposit, you might try running the garden hose water through in the opposite direction to the normal flow? Gary

    Response:

    Thanks Gary.  I have tried both directions several times.  How do I get the vinegar solution down to the clog of the water won’t go through at all? Nolan

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2 panel hot water heater.  Each panel is 4×12 ft.  One of the > panels has a clog of some sort.  I have tried hooking it up to a garden hose > and forcing water through it – no good.  Does anybody know how to solve this > problem? > If the clog is from hard water deposits, you might try running a > vinegar solution through the it to dissolve the clog.  The folks who > install/maintain these systems have a stronger acid solution that can > be used if the vinegar does not work. > If its not a hard water deposit, you might try running the garden hose > water through in the opposite direction to the normal flow? > Gary

    Response:

    > Thanks Gary.  I have tried both directions several times.  How do I get the > vinegar solution down to the clog of the water won’t go through at all?

    Pour out water from both directions (if the panel is dismounted and mobile). If the panel is mounted, you’d probably need to pump out what you can from the top side (small diameter tube connected to a pump), and pour in acid. — Cats, Coffee, Chocolate…vices to live by

    Response:

    > Thanks Gary.  I have tried both directions several times.  How do I get the > vinegar solution down to the clog of the water won’t go through at all?

    The vinegar will eat its was for the point it touches the blockage.  It may be a slow process.  The major plumbing/heating chemical companies will advise which chemical to use, which is what I would do.

    Response:

    > I have a 2 panel hot water heater.  Each panel is 4×12 ft.  One of the > panels has a clog of some sort.  I have tried hooking it up to a garden hose > and forcing water through it – no good.  Does anybody know how to solve this > problem?

    Hi, If you decide that there is no way to fix the panel, there are places that sell replacement absorber sheets.  This way you would not have to throw away the entire collector.  They will make the absorber sheets to the dimensions that you specify. Here is a link to one of them: http://www.solarenergy.com/ws400CS.cgi?category=sh_absorbers.html&car… Gary

    Response:

    Thanks.  I’ll keep the link.  I’m going to try a 1/4" auger.  Hopefully the clog is within 25′ of the output. Nolan

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a 2 panel hot water heater.  Each panel is 4×12 ft.  One of the > panels has a clog of some sort.  I have tried hooking it up to a garden hose > and forcing water through it – no good.  Does anybody know how to solve this > problem? > Hi, > If you decide that there is no way to fix the panel, there are places > that sell replacement absorber sheets.  This way you would not have > to throw away the entire collector.  They will make the absorber > sheets to > the dimensions that you specify. > Here is a link to one of them: > http://www.solarenergy.com/ws400CS.cgi?category=sh_absorbers.html&car… > Gary

    Response:

    > Thanks.  I’ll keep the link.  I’m going to try a 1/4" auger.  Hopefully the > clog is within 25′ of the output. > Nolan

    You can make a very long drill quite easily by taking say a 6 foot 1/4 inch rod and flattening the end with a hammer.  If you actually want to drill wood grind two edges on the flattened portion in a vee like a regular drill. Just the flattened "paddle" end will probably clear out your pipe.  If you want to get fancy heat it with a propane torch till it is red hot and twist it into your auger shape. – Graham PS you may want to try using something like CLR solution pumped into the pipes via small vinyl tubing… Good luck

    Response:

    CLR?

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Thanks.  I’ll keep the link.  I’m going to try a 1/4" auger.  Hopefully > the > clog is within 25′ of the output. > Nolan > You can make a very long drill quite easily by taking say a 6 foot 1/4 inch > rod and flattening > the end with a hammer.  If you actually want to drill wood grind two edges > on the flattened portion in a vee like a regular drill. > Just the flattened "paddle" end will probably clear out your pipe.  If you > want to get fancy heat it with a propane torch till it is red hot and twist > it into your auger shape. > – Graham > PS you may want to try using something like CLR solution pumped into the > pipes via small vinyl tubing… > Good luck

    Response:

    Sorry,  Trade name of some kind of "miracle" acid solution sold in Canada at ridicolous markup (as advertised on TV) for dissolving stains and hard water marks etc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> CLR?

    Response:

    >Sorry,  Trade name of some kind of "miracle" acid solution sold in Canada at >ridicolous markup (as advertised on TV) for dissolving stains and hard water >marks etc.

    we have it in the states as well.. "Calcium Lime Remover" — be safe. flip Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?

    Response:

    use citric acid its a lot cheaper and does the same thing plus you can get it from the spice section of the supermarket

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sorry,  Trade name of some kind of "miracle" acid solution sold in Canada > at > ridicolous markup (as advertised on TV) for dissolving stains and hard > water > marks etc. > CLR?

    Response:


  • insulating a deep freezer

    Question:

    I’ve got a small deep freezer.  When my power went off during Ivan, I used some aluminum faced poly insulating panels and encapsulated the freezer.  it lasted for 3 days, but when I hooked a generator up to the freezer to re-freeze the unit, the outside metal got real hot.  I did not cover the vent area for the motor and all.  Are these new freezers designed to dissipate their heat through the outer skin?  Maybe I should put my insulation on the inside?

    Response:

    >I’ve got a small deep freezer.  When my power went off during Ivan, I used >some aluminum faced poly insulating panels and encapsulated the freezer.  it >lasted for 3 days, but when I hooked a generator up to the freezer to >re-freeze the unit, the outside metal got real hot.  I did not cover the >vent area for the motor and all.  Are these new freezers designed to >dissipate their heat through the outer skin?  Maybe I should put my >insulation on the inside?

    Yes, and yes.  Recent vintage refrigerators and freezers are more commonly putting the compresser coils under the skin to protect them, prevent condensation on the outside freezer surface and utilize the skin as a large heat transfer surface.  One tip-off is the manufacturer’s instruction to provide a certain minimum clearance around the outside of the unit.

    Response:

    >I’ve got a small deep freezer.  When my power went off during Ivan, I used >some aluminum faced poly insulating panels and encapsulated the freezer.  it >lasted for 3 days, but when I hooked a generator up to the freezer to >re-freeze the unit, the outside metal got real hot.  I did not cover the >vent area for the motor and all.  Are these new freezers designed to >dissipate their heat through the outer skin?  Maybe I should put my >insulation on the inside?

    One problem with refrigs/freezers is "sweating", that is, condensation, in humid weather. Some units have small electric heater coils along the frame near the door (which, thanks to "edge effects", as well as getting the blasts of cold air when you open the door, would be the coldest section). Others, to "save energy", instead pass some of the condenser heat into that area. (I’d much rather they simply used better insulation…) Most electric strip units have a switch somehere or another you can toggle on/off. It’s often labled somthing like "energy saver" or "high humidity". — Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

    Response:


  • Hail protection for collector

    Question:

    What are the dangers of hailstones breaking the glass on a solar collector? I have some nice double glazed widows I’d like to use in some   home made collectors. They are 3 ft by 7.5ft. and would be at an angle of roughly sixty degrees to ground (thirty degrees from vertical). Any experiences? Would a plastic cover reduce efficiency too much? mike —      __    __    __    __    __    __    __    __     / /  / /  / /  / /  / /  / /  / /  / /   /_/  /_/  /_/  /_/  /_/  /_/  /_/  /_/             ..let the cat out to reply..                


  • Do Reflectors Work at Night?

    Question:

    I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day?  - Bill Fisher p.s. my guess is that they will help, at least when you have them blocking the colletor’s view of the relatively hot terrestial environment, and converting that into a view of the sky.

    Response:

    I guess your main heat losses will be conduction/ air convection and NOT radiation (unless you have a particularly cold night), which means that the reflector will make little difference. The principle is correct, however. adrenalin

    > I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the > cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to > mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing > flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day? >  - Bill Fisher > p.s. my guess is that they will help, at least when you have them > blocking the colletor’s view of the relatively hot terrestial environment, > and converting that into a view of the sky.

    — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

    Response:

    > I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the > cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to > mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing > flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day? >  - Bill Fisher > p.s. my guess is that they will help, at least when you have them > blocking the colletor’s view of the relatively hot terrestial environment, > and converting that into a view of the sky.

    Well, *assuming* no conduction/convection is involved, no I don’t think they would help.  If a given amount of energy is radiated from your ‘collector’ at night, the path the radiation takes after leaving it isn’t too important (unless the reflector actually reflects it back to the collector surface). To maximize radiant cooling, I should think you want to fold the reflectors down flat away from the collector.  This would maximize the angle that the collector can radiate thru to the night sky. daestrom

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the > cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to > mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing > flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day? >  - Bill Fisher > p.s. my guess is that they will help, at least when you have them > blocking the colletor’s view of the relatively hot terrestial environment, > and converting that into a view of the sky. > Well, *assuming* no conduction/convection is involved, no I don’t think they > would help.  If a given amount of energy is radiated from your ‘collector’ > at night, the path the radiation takes after leaving it isn’t too important > (unless the reflector actually reflects it back to the collector surface). > To maximize radiant cooling, I should think you want to fold the reflectors > down flat away from the collector.  This would maximize the angle that the > collector can radiate thru to the night sky. > daestrom

    My feeling is that they would help, but to see much benefit you’d need a clear sky. Your radiator will radiate energy depending upon its temperature and the surface material. It will also absorb radiated energy striking it. Whether the body cools or heats up (for radiated energy) will be dictated by which energy flow is higher. By placing the body in the reflector, you are receiving minimal energy (from the direction of the reflector surface), but the radiated energy flow is maintained. The best part is that the reflectors would not need to track any part of the sky. In fact the reflector surface could be extended beyond the radiator to decrease the radiation from the surroundings. Whether it would be worth it is another matter. (You still have ambient temperature and conduction to think about of course). What do you think? Simon.

    Response:

    Simon says: >Whether it would be worth it is another matter. (You still have ambient >temperature and conduction to think about of course). >What do you think?

     Well, it depends on how cheaply you can make the cooler and how dear electricity is.  I hope I can get some free time in a couple of weeks to do some actual experimenting. Even if it’s not economical, I may try to do it anyway: it’d really be a kick to be able to freeze a little ice in August this way.  I found a paper at this site: http://wire0.ises.org/wire/doclibs/SWC1999.nsf/0/e678b47954fc0b69c125… 03d61a4?OpenDocument  that claims to get 40 watts/sq meter of cooling power with their cooling radiator design. A small room air conditioner might take 6000 btu/hr  =~ 1758 watts, so you could get the equivalent with a collector of 44 sq m, or about 400 sq ft, about 20′ x 20′, unless I’ve mis-calculated.   And I’m trying to figure out a way to pull & hold a vacuum around the collector, which should minimize conductance losses. And if it’s a flat plate, covering the back & sides with shiny aluminum foil should minimize radiative losses to the earth.  I haven’t found a real good source for cheap flat copper or aluminum for flat plates, so my first real experimental system may be an evacuated-tube design, using copper tubes sold for plumbing, a transparent surrounding tube made from a flourescent-light protector that Lowe’s sells, evacuated with a small hand pump sold by Edmund Scientifics, and a large reflector made from cardboard covered with aluminum foil.  I plan to do some preliminary experiments using two wide-mouth thermos bottles side by side, each lidded with a sandwich of two sheets of plastic or glass with a vacuum between, one with a large funnel reflector and one without, each with an electronic thermometer inside. This should tell me what cooling power I can typically get, and whether or not a reflector really helps.  And I’m going to sneak some flat wires out of the thermos bottles running to my computer, so I don’t have to sit up all night recording data.  - Bill F.

    Response:

    >   And I’m trying to figure out a way to pull & hold a vacuum > around the collector, which should minimize conductance losses.

    It would also bounce the radiation (long wavelength) from the radiator back, preventing the cooling effect. One possible way of looking at the idea of using reflectors to cool is this. A flat plate insulated and silvered on the bottom is only radiating energy from half of its’ surface area. By using reflectors, you can double it, along with the radiative cooling effect. Perhaps as an experiment you could fill some copper tubes with warm water and make use of reflectors with one of them, and record how quickly their temperatures drop, and how low their temperatures go. Should be fairly quick and easy to do. Simon. Here’s a though. Since the radiation is long wavelength, the reflectors need not be shiny or opaque. Glass could do the trick!

    Response:

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the > > cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to > > mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing > > flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day? > >  - Bill Fisher > > p.s. my guess is that they will help, at least when you have them > > blocking the colletor’s view of the relatively hot terrestial > environment, > > and converting that into a view of the sky. > Well, *assuming* no conduction/convection is involved, no I don’t think > they > would help.  If a given amount of energy is radiated from your ‘collector’ > at night, the path the radiation takes after leaving it isn’t too > important > (unless the reflector actually reflects it back to the collector surface). > To maximize radiant cooling, I should think you want to fold the > reflectors > down flat away from the collector.  This would maximize the angle that the > collector can radiate thru to the night sky. > daestrom > My feeling is that they would help, but to see much benefit you’d need a > clear sky. Your radiator will radiate energy depending upon its temperature > and the surface material. It will also absorb radiated energy striking it. > Whether the body cools or heats up (for radiated energy) will be dictated by > which energy flow is higher. By placing the body in the reflector, you are > receiving minimal energy (from the direction of the reflector surface), but > the radiated energy flow is maintained. The best part is that the reflectors > would not need to track any part of the sky. In fact the reflector surface > could be extended beyond the radiator to decrease the radiation from the > surroundings.

    What you’re saying is true, *if* the reflector blocks the line-of-sight between the collector and some warm body here on Earth.  But I was thinking of folding any such reflector down so that there is a wider arc of *sky* exposed to the collector.  If the reflector is just between the collector and some portion of the sky, then the radiant flux from the reflector *must* be higher than the portion of the sky it obscures.  And in that case, no reflector is better. But yes, if instead it blocks radiant energy from some earth bound objects, then it would improve the cooling. daestrom

    Response:

    > > > I’m planning to get some coolth from exposing a collector to the > > cold black night sky.  But can anybody tell me if it will help to > > mount reflector wings on the side, as it helps when you’re doing > > flat-plate solar heat collecting during the day?

    Lets see… objects on earth have temp determined by conduction and radiation to and from other objects around them, including air. If we vacuum insulate something, there is very little conduction, and temp is determined by the equilibrium of radiated heat to and from the object. Now if we add sky pointing reflectors all around our insulated object, the object still radiates but the sky radiates very little back. Dose this mean that oevr time this object would fall well below earth air temp? Regards, NT

    Response:


  • Need Info on Solar Roof Shingles

    Question:

    Hello everyone. This is my first post to this group.  My apologies if this topic has been covered (as I’m sure it has).  I’m in the process of buying a motel in South Lake Tahoe, CA to renovate.  One thing I’d like to explore is replacing the roof with solar shingles, but I don’t really know where to start. If anyone has any experience with solar roofing shingles and/or good website references, I’d greatly appreciate any information you can share. Thanks so much! -Rob Wyatt

    Response:

    >[...] > If anyone has any experience with solar roofing shingles and/or good > website references, I’d greatly appreciate any information you can > share.

            You may find the PV FAQ of some use, specifically Questions 9F,9G.         9F) What are these solar tiles?         9G) What are Building Integrated PhotoVoltaics?         http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~het/energy/pv_faq.html#Q09         There are also some Solar Tile dealers at:         http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~het/energy/solar.html#SolarTiles         In the States there is a federal Million Roofs project         you can find through the DOE. <regards> -het PS.         Added a.s.pv     — "The universe is full of magical things patiently waiting for  our wits to grow sharper." -Eden Phillpotts PV FAQ: http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~het/energy/pv_faq.html H.E. Taylor  http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~het/

    Response:

    Just saw in Popular Science. See www.solarcentury.com

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If anyone has any experience with solar roofing shingles and/or good > website references, I’d greatly appreciate any information you can > share.

    Response:


  • Adhesive for Coroplast

    Question:

    Loctite has an adhesive, Loctite 3030, which will bond polypropylene, as well as other low energy plastics. They have a PDF tech sheet on their web-site.

    Response:

    hello thanks I will check it : my project is still alive: 8 by 8 feet solar panel with coroplast and thanks of pvc on top and bottom. I will post the result here ! Snoop – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Loctite has an adhesive, Loctite 3030, which will > bond polypropylene, as well as other low energy > plastics. > They have a PDF tech sheet on their web-site.

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > hello > thanks I will check it : my project is still alive: 8 by 8 feet solar panel > with coroplast and thanks of pvc on top and bottom. > I will post the result here ! > Snoop > Loctite has an adhesive, Loctite 3030, which will > bond polypropylene, as well as other low energy > plastics. > They have a PDF tech sheet on their web-site.

    Please do, I would be very interested.

    Response:


  • Variable frequency drive for single phase motor

    Question:

    I have a central AC unit. It is single phase motor compressor. I am looking for a vaiable frequency drive unit for it. I hope it can save energy. Will it work? I found only three phase variable frequency drive unit in the market. Is there any single phase variable frequency drive at all?

    Response:

    > I have a central AC unit. It is single phase motor compressor. I am looking > for a vaiable frequency drive unit for it. I hope it can save energy. Will > it work?

    No.  The motor/compressor is optimized for peak efficiency at line voltage & frequency. If you want to save energy set the thermostat higher and thus decrease running time. >I found only three phase variable frequency drive unit in the > market. Is there any single phase variable frequency drive at all?

    Yes. There are small solid state VFD devices availible, mostly as ‘fan controllers`. They must be size-matched to the motors to which they are connected. Pragmatist "Politicians are not born, they are excreted." – Some very perceptive old greek.

    Response:

    > I have a central AC unit. It is single phase motor compressor. I am looking > for a vaiable frequency drive unit for it. I hope it can save energy. Will > it work? I found only three phase variable frequency drive unit in the > market. Is there any single phase variable frequency drive at all?

        You might try this question on the alt.engineering.electrical newsgroup. You’ll probably get some good answers there.  There are small 3 phase motors available that might fit your compressor.  Some VFDs can take single phase and change it to 3 phase so you could run a 3 phase motor for your compressor.   You could also try your question at the alt.home.repair group.  There are some professional HVAC guys there that seem to give good advice.                                            Dean —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 100,000 Newsgroups – 19 Different Servers! =—–

    Response:

    In your case no.  Large systems may have variable speed load controls, but on small home units they just cycle the compressor to control output. If it was necessary to use variable speed you would change the sealed compressor unit with a 3 phase unit and then use a 3 phase speed controller.  Three phase induction motors can be controlled over at least a 20 to 1 speed range.  Single phase motors have several problems when you try and change there speed.  As a single phase motor needs to make a second phase to start, the methods used interfere with the speed controller.  Start switches cut in at some speed and turn on the intermittent duty start winding.  Split phase systems without start switches run at low efficiency.  Etc.

    – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a central AC unit. It is single phase motor compressor. I am looking > for a vaiable frequency drive unit for it. I hope it can save energy. Will > it work?

    Response:

    > I have a central AC unit. It is single phase motor compressor. I am looking > for a vaiable frequency drive unit for it. I hope it can save energy. Will > it work? I found only three phase variable frequency drive unit in the > market. Is there any single phase variable frequency drive at all?

    It will work however a 3 phase system is simpler. A single phase AC motor will have some method of starting: shaded poles (very inefficient),  they have a secondand auxilary split phase winding physicaly at 90 degrees with a phase lag created in the current by capacitor start with a centrifugal or timed disconected, capacitor start capacitor run or differing reactance of the winding. In this way as the current in the main winding is decreasing the auxilary winding due to the capacitiative phase lag is increasing and as it is a 90 degrees the vector sum of the tow windings produces a rotating magnetic field.   This second winding is not necessary once the motor is already spining in the required direction. this is becuase a single phase motor can be conceived of as running on two contra rotating magnetic fields comming out of the main winding that sum into only one stationary field.  Once running (by physicaly spining the motor or by the auxiliary winding with its capactitative phase lag)  the non linearity of the magnetic material with frequency means that the backward rotating magnetic field is less due to the increased impedence at higher frequencies and therefore has less torgue than the forward rotating one becuause it has a lower frequency as the rotor is spning in the same direction. All this mean that a single phase motor is actualy slighly less efficient and in some ways a little more complicasted than a 3 phase one. 3 phase motors simply have 3 winding s at 120 degrees that are connect usualy in at a star point (where all three cancel and balance hence no neutral is needed).   The rotating field is produced by the 120 degree phase lag either by direct connection to the network or to the varible frequency drive whcih synthesis them. A single phase variable frequency controller is usually (99.5% of the time) used to synthesis a 3 phase current for a 3 phase motor. So controllers for singel phase motors are very rare becuase of awkward starting torgue characteristics (not a problem with a fan or compressor) but they simply are not as good and don’t save on complexity.

    Response:


  • How are those fuel cells coming

    Question:

    > They do get very hot when working, don’t they? You are talking about > dissipating a KW or so when cruising. More when dragging a trailer up hill. > What is a good number?

            For metal hydrides, how about the heat of vaporization needed to kick the hydrogen out of the hydride state? even with fuel cells, there needs to be some tricky heat swapping and heat transfer systems to get the cell charged. I don’t think we are there yet..         Angelo Campanella

    Response:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve heard that fuel cells are 80% efficient, something like that. > Whereas ICE are about 20% (for gasoline). > Way off. ICE ranges from 20-40% (autos-locomotives). > You have to combine fuel cell and motor-controller efficiencies. > Currently the best is 50% x 80% equals 40%. > So are fuel cells the future?  What are the current technical > problems with them that make them too expensive or whatever their > current problem is?  Do you think they’ll be resolved soon? > Hydrogen is too difficult to store and too expensive to produce. > There is no need for a hydrogen economy until crude and gas exceeds > 100 $/bbl.

    Hydrogen’s problems are not just economic.  Because of its EXTREMELY low density, it is impractical from the standpoint of being able to carry enough of it in a tank to get the desired range.  Corey is correct in wanting to go with metal hydrides, but this technology isn’t developed yet. IF … if some magical scientific breakthrough can get the density of stored hydrogen way up, and if some magical scientific breakthrough can cheaply produce the huge amounts of energy needed to make hydrogen from non-fossil-fuel sources, and if some magical scientific breakthrough can produce very high efficiencies in each energy conversion step, THEN hydrogen might be a practical alternative.  Just these three hurdles are very high, and not likely to be overcome any time soon. The best bet at the present time is nuclear energy driving the S-I process. However, the public has been educated to think that nuclear is bad. Interesting, isn’t it? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> There are stationary fuel-cell generators that use methane and are 70% > efficent. They are still expensive compared to diesel or > micro-turbine, but more efficient.

    Response:

    >Not, I think, quite as good as the manual pure mechanical transmission >if you can operate at optimum RPM, course it is demanding and you have >to drive like an old lady to get this performance. > No, that whole sentence is wrong.

    Gee Axel, that wouldn’t be the first time. >There is no such thing as "optimum RPM".

    The typical ICE has a torque/power curve that looks a bit like an inverted bathtub. At very low RPM, very low torque and power. At very high RPM the torque starts to slide off and the available power drops. That is, after all, why ICEs use gear shifts. Since a DC electric motor typically has a very high stall torque, it is possible to operate an electric car without a transmission, or even a clutch for that matter, though I think no one does this (except golf carts and the like) since you can get much better performance with one.

    Response:

    > Way too much for a manual. It would get very hot with those losses.

    They do get very hot when working, don’t they? You are talking about dissipating a KW or so when cruising. More when dragging a trailer up hill. What is a good number?

    Response:

    >The typical ICE has a torque/power curve that looks a bit like an >inverted bathtub.

    Of course, but that was not the point. Driving a car you place a highly variable power demand on the engine. It is a common misconception that there was such a thing as an optimal engine speed, i.e. whatever the power delivered at the moment might be, you ought to try and stay at or near that one speed. The facts are different. For each and every power output  (to the non scientists and engineers reading here: a gearbox or any  other transmission changes speed and torque in inverse proportion – it  is power that gets conserved (except for small losses of course), so  whatever gear you happen to be in, power in equals power out and it is  power out that’s the independant variable you adjust so as not to bump  into the car in front) there is one point in the spead vs. torque map that will deliver best efficiency. For each and every power demand this falls onto or very near to the maximum torque line spanning the whole speed range. Thus you should always use the lowest speed that will, at full throttle, deliver just the power you want and change down if and only if you need more. Automatic transmissions are and always will be incapable of doing this. — Tsch